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frenched
 Joined: 16 Feb 2013 Posts: 394 Location: MD USA
Expire: 2014-06-17
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 6:27 pm Post subject: Did I kill my Biometar? |
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frenched wrote:
I searched around a bit but couldn't find an answer, so I'll put this out to the intelligentsia here.
In an effort to loosen up a sticky focus ring on a Biometar 80mm a well-intentioned idiot who'll remain nameless -- well ok, me -- disassembled the lens for re-greasing but separated the helicals without marking the position. I spent a couple hours trying to put it back but couldn't. My somewhat-local repair guy wouldn't touch it, saying it would be cheaper at this point to just buy another one. He may be right but I'm not giving up yet.
Any thoughts about this? (Besides coming to my senses and giving up lens repair.) Is there a trick to re-joining these parts or is the Biometar toast? This is the silver/aluminum version in Exakta mount and a very nice copy, so I'd really like to save it.
Thanks for any advice! |
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fermy
 Joined: 17 Feb 2012 Posts: 2877
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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fermy wrote:
What has come apart could be put together again. All helicals are somewhat similar, it will take time to find correct entry points, but it's definitely not an impossible task. You might try joining two part helical from the other end, it could be easier. _________________ Many lenses and some film bodies for sale here: http://forum.mflenses.com/canon-fd-minolta-md-c-mounts-m42-pentax-and-more-t50465.html
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/96060788@N06/ |
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guardian
 Joined: 18 Mar 2009 Posts: 1747
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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guardian wrote:
I agree with fermy.
First, allow me to say I am (embarrassed)
But I confess I never mark helicals. I guess this is wrong. But reassembly, while occasionally a bit tedious, is never a problem in the end.
My view: In this matter, patience is a virtue.
If you decide, regardless counsel here, instead to deep six the lens, I hope you put the parts up for adoption. I suspect there will be takers!!  |
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visualopsins
 Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10362 Location: California
Expire: 2021-06-22
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
On the few (3 or 4) lenses I have taken apart helical I didn't make any markings. On all these lenses made in Japan, the start point is actually already "marked" -- some other lens barrel marking also marks the helical start point. On two lenses the "mark" happened to also be the distance line on the lens barrel.
Properly positioning two helical is exponentially more difficult, unfortunately. My approach could take weeks or might work first time. I say weeks because when something like this frustrates me I set it aside to work on later, whenever I have a few minutes to try again. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony A7Rii, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Lenses:
Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200
Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300
Macro-Takumar 1:4/50
Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm
Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element),
Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500
Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100
Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100
SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
Other lenses:
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto
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Attila
 Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57939 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-11-18
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Biometar is not a piece of cake, I did assembled wrongly too, it was complette, but no infinity. Had to pay for repairman to fix it. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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inombrable
 Joined: 20 Mar 2012 Posts: 545 Location: Salamanca, Mexico
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 8:54 pm Post subject: |
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inombrable wrote:
Agree with Fermy too.
I also have disassembled a good number of lenses and not marked the helicals (well marked with not so permanent marker) and put them back correctly. At the beginning you might think you have tried all the possible combinations but .... you haven´t !!!!
This is a matter of trial and error and LOTS of patience, the longest it took me to put one lens back together was almost 3 weeks of trying almost daily !!!!! I was about to bin it for mental health!!!
Up to you but I wouldn't give up on that lens just for that.
Good luck. |
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frenched
 Joined: 16 Feb 2013 Posts: 394 Location: MD USA
Expire: 2014-06-17
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Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2013 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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frenched wrote:
Well I'm relieved to hear all may not be lost. Not too concerned about losing infinity but I'd rather not.
Right now it has a special place on the kitchen counter and every now and then I give it a try when I pass by. The repair guy said something about 24 possible entry points, just have to hit the right one. |
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SonicScot
 Joined: 01 Dec 2011 Posts: 2711 Location: Scottish Highlands
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Posted: Mon Jun 24, 2013 4:33 pm Post subject: |
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SonicScot wrote:
| frenched wrote: |
Well I'm relieved to hear all may not be lost. Not too concerned about losing infinity but I'd rather not.
Right now it has a special place on the kitchen counter and every now and then I give it a try when I pass by. The repair guy said something about 24 possible entry points, just have to hit the right one. |
You'll find it  _________________ Gary
Currently active gear....
Sony a7
E-M1 Mkll
Rubinar 1000/10 + 2x matched extender
Tamron 500/8 55BB
Sigma 100-300/4
Vivitar Series 1.... 200/3, 70-210/3.5 (V1 by Kiron), 135/2.3, 105/2.5 macro, 90/2.5 macro (Bokina), 90-180/4.5 Flat Field Macro, 28-90mm f/2.8-3.5
Carl Zeiss.... 180/2.8, 135/3.5, 85/1.4, 35/2.4 Flektagon, 21/2.8 Distagon
Nikon.... 55/3.5 micro, 50/1.2
Elicar 90/2.5 V-HQ Macro
Zhongyi Speedmaster 85/1.2
Jupiter-9 85/2
Helios.... 58/2 44-3
Hartblei 45/3.5 Super-Rotator TS-PC
Zenitar 16/2.8 fisheye
Samyang 8/3.5 fisheye
Nodal Ninja 4, Neewer leveling tripod base
Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/gazsus/ Website http://garianphotography.co.uk/ |
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frenched
 Joined: 16 Feb 2013 Posts: 394 Location: MD USA
Expire: 2014-06-17
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Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2013 8:12 pm Post subject: |
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frenched wrote:
I can get the threads to mate and turn a few millimeters but then the helical locks up. I believe I found and tried all the starting positions. I'm beginning to think the threads are crossed/damaged which is probably why the focusing was so stiff in the first place. I don't have a loupe but the first few courses of threads in the aluminum barrel look a little ragged. |
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guardian
 Joined: 18 Mar 2009 Posts: 1747
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Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 10:11 am Post subject: |
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guardian wrote:
| frenched wrote: |
| I can get the threads to mate and turn a few millimeters but then the helical locks up. I believe I found and tried all the starting positions. I'm beginning to think the threads are crossed/damaged which is probably why the focusing was so stiff in the first place. I don't have a loupe but the first few courses of threads in the aluminum barrel look a little ragged. |
It's entirely possible . . . . especially if the helical was running with insufficient lubrication at some point during the life of the lens, if it was running "dirty", or both. You might have had aluminum on aluminum galling or just grit in there, tearing things up.
All is not lost in my opinion. First, you need really good magnification and excellent lighting. This would include high diopter eyeglasses (for stereo viewing of the problem) and perhaps, in addition, a large, lighted, stand-alone magnifier.
You will need somehow to polish out the galled regions of the helical, perhaps using a gentle abrasive. You were smart not to attempt to force the helical together. That would only make things worse. When it is right, and after proper lubricant is present, it will screw together with ease. |
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