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Cyclop 85mm f1.5 how to
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 14, 2012 5:05 pm    Post subject: Cyclop 85mm f1.5 how to Reply with quote
This lens has several issue, no aperture , huge amount of CA , long protrude part, but produce capable pictures with care.
I try to introduce here my experience how I use it , may you found it useful and you will respect it better as an art tool.

1) Screw off rear lens part, due if you not do working distance will be too short.
2) Seek a repair man who able cut remain protrude tube.
3) Purchase an aperture or make one from cardboard or purchase an adapter with aperture.
4) Close blades to get sharp images , but keep swallow DOF
5) Make serial shoots and allow model to move a bit, serials help to catch best moment.
6) Import image to Photoshop or any other tool, add more light on it to look over exposed.
(this process works well with light color eyes only)
7) Use Silverfx filters Yellow, Orange, Darken color etc what you like best on actual images.

#1

#2

#3

#4

#5


#11 Straight from camera, we had no time and good light to find better background.

#12 Cut from genuine one, little cleaning on face, sharpened.

#13 Add more light on image to look a bit overexposed

#14 Silverfx darken contrast vignette plugin in Photoshop + even more light add on it


PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
hello
thank you first Smile
some questions :

my lens goes after infinty and goes ultra swirly but everything is out focus ,is that the same for you?
Can we do something?
with an extension tube , the lens goes nearer but no more infinity !!! (11mm) Can we use an extension tube to reajust the register of the lens?
Best regards Laurent


PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2013 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
darkstah wrote:
hello
my lens goes after infinty and goes ultra swirly but everything is out focus ,is that the same for you?
Can we do something?
with an extension tube , the lens goes nearer but no more infinity !!! (11mm) Can we use an extension tube to readjust the register of the lens?
Best regards Laurent


It's been a while since you asked about this, but I'll chime in case you are still wondering or anyone reading is interested.

I have a Canon DSLR, and when the modified Cyclop is mounted without the rear element, the focus range goes way past infinity as well. I also noticed the ultra swirl happening there and that brought to light an interesting difference between the older Cyclop lenses and these newer ones that need the rear element removed. I'll sidetrack for a moment since I haven't read anyone mention this much yet:

On the older Cyclop, the swirly bokeh is very visible in the background (BEYOND the point of focus....)

However...with the rear element removed it is the opposite! Background bokeh is much more tame in comparison, not spinning. The radical spinning bokeh is still there...but now it has moved to out of focus areas that are IN FRONT of the point of focus. That's why it goes "ultra swirl" once you focus past infinity. Surprised I'm on the lookout now for some interesting compositions could be made that emphasize a swirly, out-of-focus forground.

Back to your question, even the smallest extension tube I could find (7mm) proved to be too much. I've estimated that the optimal extra distance needed for my camera to have the closest focus and still reach infinity is somewhere around 2mm-3mm. The best solution I have currently is to add a 1mm spacer so that the lens does not screw in all the way but still has has about a full turn to securely hold the lens in place. This increases the usable range very well- still goes past infinity a bit...but now I can focus on things that are closer.

I have all three versions of the Cyclop lens now, so I hope to write up a review and post photo comparisons soon.
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