Custom bellows flash accessory

[Arlon]

Flash on a bellows with some lenses can be really difficult. Can't mount a ring flash on a reversed lens, object too close to the lens, etc. Well, here's my $2 solution!

My 30 minute, $2, custom telescoping macro snoot!
Just an easy way to use the sb-800 (or anything else) for macro on a reversed lens and bellows.
This set up is probably in 4-5x catagory..
SB-800 in fp is really not powerful enough for the snoot have to use it in ITTL or manual mode.

This was put togather in a few minutes from some 1/4" foam core. Very light, rigid, cheap and easy to work with. Razor blade, cutting mat and tape where all I needed other than the foam core.

With a few deflectors, milk carton diffuser, etc. over the end I can get pretty soft light on anything from the lens out to about 6"..

Snoot Closed:


Snoot Extended:


snoot off:



Larger images available out here http://www.pbase.com/arlon/snoot
_________________
D200, D90, D70 (IR converted), D50, F2
Big box of MF lenses from 18mm to 600mm and a lot in between..

Favorites are the micro nikkors (55mm, 105mm and 200mm).

[F16SUNSHINE]

You are a crafty guy Arlon. Thanks for sharing this. It will be very useful to others I'm sure. Is this the flash you used for some of the bug shots?

[Arlon]

I have only used it on some of the very latest shots. I just came up with the solution a few weeks ago when I couldn't get the light where I wanted it.

One suggestion if you use foam core or poster board is to get something with a different outside color. I'm going to spray paint mine camouflage green. The bugs see the white tube coming from a mile away.

I also had a problem with the outsid portion falling off because I made it a hair too big. Solution was to use a push pin throught the snoot to hold it at the length I need it.

It also makes a handy "spot" light with the outside portion off. It just becomes a straight flash tunnel.. Makes for some interesting spot type fill light.

Hope someone else tries this. It has to be the cheapest solution to getting flash out in front of the lens..
_________________
D200, D90, D70 (IR converted), D50, F2
Big box of MF lenses from 18mm to 600mm and a lot in between..

Favorites are the micro nikkors (55mm, 105mm and 200mm).

[Richard_D]

Brilliant idea - now I've got solve the problem of a lack of flashgun (well unless I risk my old vivitar 283). I'm guessing the D200 built in flash wouldn't provide nearly enough illumination to be worth trying...

I wonder whether for a sturdier version you could adapt plastic cable box ducting...
_________________
Richard

The interesting bit:

Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.

DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.

More to come...

[Richard_D]

Brilliant idea - now I've got solve the problem of a lack of flashgun (well unless I risk my old vivitar 283). I'm guessing the D200 built in flash wouldn't provide nearly enough illumination to be worth trying...

I wonder whether for a sturdier version you could adapt plastic cable box ducting...
_________________
Richard

The interesting bit:

Nikkors: 20mm f2.8 AIS, 24mm f2.8 AIS, 28mm f2.8 AIS, 35mm f2 AIS, 50mm f1.4 AI, 50mm f1.48AI, 50m f2 AI,
55mm f3.5 AI'd, 105mm f4 AI, 135mm f2.8 AI'd, 135mm f3.5 AI'd, 200mm f4 AI'd .
Nikon E Series: 100mm f2.8 .
Soviet Nikon Mount: Zenitar 16mm f2.8, Arsat/arax/photex 85mm T&S f2.8 .
Other: Asahi Super Takumar 55 mm f2 (M42) ,Tamron 300mm f5.6 SP, Tamron 500mm f8 SP.

DSLR: Nikon D700. 35mm SLRsNikon FE, Pentax S1a.
TLR: Rolliecord II.
Sub-Minature: Pentax Auto 110, 18mm f2.8, 24mm f2.8, 50mm f2.8.

More to come...

[Arlon]

Your vivitar 283 would probably work as well as anything. Those are great little flashes. Just use a little black tape on the lens to control the flash if it's too bright.

Some flashes with manual controls are better but if it just has one power level on a d200, black tape on the front of the flash does a wonderful job of adjusting flash level.

Some flashes with more than just a center pin do funny things when stuck on the nikons. I cover the foot with a strip of black tape and cut out a spot for the center pin. I have a dozen old flashes for various cameras and they all work on the d200. CHECK THE CENTER PIN VOLTAGE on older flashes you plan to use on a dslr. If more than 8volts I wouldn't use it without a wein adapter.
_________________
D200, D90, D70 (IR converted), D50, F2
Big box of MF lenses from 18mm to 600mm and a lot in between..

Favorites are the micro nikkors (55mm, 105mm and 200mm).

[Richard_D]

[Arlon]

I have at least a dozen old flash guns and I use a silver sharpie marker to write the voltage value on the back of the flashes (just so I know they have been checked). I have one I threw away because it was showing 200v at the center pin. Nikon circuit burner for sure. I just didn't want it in the house.

Get a voltmeter at radioshack or Sears for about $10.. Handy little tool.
_________________
D200, D90, D70 (IR converted), D50, F2
Big box of MF lenses from 18mm to 600mm and a lot in between..

Favorites are the micro nikkors (55mm, 105mm and 200mm).

[Richard_D]

[peterqd]

I tried to measure the voltage of my flash using a digital voltmeter but I'm having problems. When the flash fires the digital display flickers and then almost instantly returns to zero so I get no reading. Am I doing something wrong?
_________________
Lenses: M42 - CZJ 2.8/20, 2.4/35, 1.8/50, 2.8/50, 3.5/135 - Meyer/Pentacon 1.8/50, 2.8/50, 2.8/135, 4/200
Russian - J9, J21, J37A, M1v, M24m, I50-2, H44m-4 Vega12
Takumar 3.5/28, 2.0/35, 3.5/35, 1.4/50(x2), 1.8/55(x2), 1.9/85, 3.5/135 - Vivitar 2.8/28
K-mount : Pentax-M 2.8/28, 1.7/50 - Tamron zooms :SP28-80, SP35-80, SP60-300, 80-210
DSLR:Canon 400D 35mm SLR: Pentax Spotmatic SP, SPII(x2), SPF, ESII, K2, ME Super, P30 - Chinon CE3 - Minolta XG-M - Praktica Nova 1B, PLC2
Rangefinder: Zorki-4, Beauty Light-o-matic III Medium Format: Yashica-Mat 124G

[Arlon]

Just turn the flash on, measure the voltage between the center pin and the ground on the side of the hot shoe. Don't flash it. The voltage will be there as long as the flash is powered on. Be sure the flash has new batteries so you get a maximum reading.

I haven't heard that a d200 will take 250v? I was under the impression that nikon limts where in the 10v range. I also have a D50 and D70 and I got that 10v number when I first got the D50. Maybe the D200 is different and maybe I've been operating on bad info.
_________________
D200, D90, D70 (IR converted), D50, F2
Big box of MF lenses from 18mm to 600mm and a lot in between..

Favorites are the micro nikkors (55mm, 105mm and 200mm).

[Richard_D]

[Farside]

It was early to mid Canon digitals that couldn't handle much more than 6~8V - afaik, from the 20D onwards they could take much higher voltages (there have been posts on this before). A succession of people frying their Canons with old flashes gave rise to the rumour that all dSLRs were vulnerable. To the best of my knowledge, Nikons weren't vulnerable at all (up to 240V, that is).
http://dpanswers.com/nikon_flash.html#tv
_________________
Dave

The Lenses of Farside

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