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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 6:56 pm Post subject: Canon FD 135/2.5 S.C. |
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pavko wrote:
Hello everyone,
Long time reader, time for first post.
Story is simple - I've bought butchered (no aperature ring, shortened barrel, pentax bayonet and still no infinity...) FD 135/2.5 and would like to rebuild it so it will shine (hopefully) again. Plan is to make custom aperature (I think direct link, stopless) ring and M42 mount (as it is most universal - I use both Canon and Sigma DSLR). To do that I need some photos of original working aperature mechanism. Maybe someone have service manual and could share - page with diagram of the lens would be most helpful here. |
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Attila
 Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57939 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2021-11-18
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Welcome!
Pretty hard stuff what you did figure out! Keep inform us how is your restoration project going. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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trifox
 Joined: 14 May 2008 Posts: 3634 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
Hi pavko.
This one is pretty difficult to convert even for EOS flange (44 mm) from FD flange back distance (42 mm)
the barrel must go in the lathe.
I really do not understand how someone can even think about M42 flange back from FD.
You will have a difficulty to use it on Pentax.
tf _________________ Flickr.com |
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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:14 pm Post subject: |
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pavko wrote:
| trifox wrote: |
the barrel must go in the lathe.
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That's the plan as the barrel is already ruined. From seller description it seams that this lens is now focusing up to 20 m on pentax (same register distance as M42). From my calculation (telephoto ratio is 0.98 so near 1) it seams that I need a little bit over ~0.9 mm to reach infinity. From my measurements it looks like I still have around 2 mm. Looks doable. Also I guess I know what prevented "succesfull" conversion of the one that did it - it was aperature link which was left and which would be over sanded down barrel. So he left it half done.
My only concern is whether there is ball bearing near aperature blades - that's why I would like to see diagram first.
| trifox wrote: |
I really do not understand how someone can even think about M42 flange back from FD.
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Some things cannot be done until someone will do them
| Attila wrote: |
Keep inform us how is your restoration project going.
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I don't expect it will be done in days. I'm patient so I would expect rather months. But sure I will update topic then. In the meantime I will post photos of the lens as it is now. |
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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:33 pm Post subject: |
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pavko wrote:
Photos:
1) Front - some scratches on the glass but nothing major:
2) Side - Pentax bayonet is removed - damage is clearly visible (also possibility to convert...)
3) Back:
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trifox
 Joined: 14 May 2008 Posts: 3634 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:46 pm Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
this lens is ... severely damaged .
tf _________________ Flickr.com |
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marty
 Joined: 09 Apr 2009 Posts: 768 Location: Italy
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Posted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 2:20 am Post subject: |
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marty wrote:
Hello.
Some links that might be useful: http://rick_oleson.tripod.com/index-161.html from the excellent Rick Oleson pages, here have a look at the pdf at bottom page http://www.paradesquare.ca/canon_fd/tech_ref.htm. Looks like you're missing most of the original linkage. As far as ball bearings they are surely present in the bayonet, at least in the new FD variant which I happened to have disassembled, and under the aperture ring to provide stop clicks. I haven't yet reached closer than that to aperture blades. I hope these might be useful. Good luck for your restoration project and hopefully for subsequent photos .
Best, M. _________________ Canon FD
Bodies: AT-1, A-1, T-90
Lenses: nFD 20mm f2.8, 24 f2.8, 28 f2.8, 35 f2, FD 50 f1.8 S.C., 85 f1.8, 100 f2.8, 135 f2.8, 200 f4, 300 f4
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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 10:45 am Post subject: |
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pavko wrote:
Thank you for all those links. They seem to cover almost everything I need to know. Rest is proper planning (10 times measure and draw - one time cut) and proper tools. |
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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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pavko wrote:
If you ever had the need to dismantle this type of lens, here is how:
1) Unscrew 3 tiny screws (1.0 mm flat screwdriver) that hold focusing ring and center of the helicoid (1 of those screws is in the center of the photo):
2) Move focusing ring with sunshade so that you can see 2 screws securing whole front block and unscrew them (on the picture you can see hole only as screw has been already removed):
3) Unscrew front block:
4) Unscrew 3 screws securing aperature to helicoid. Remove aperature with rear bleck from helicoid and you are done (Again only 2 (of 3) holes visible on the picture):
What is worth to be noted is that focusing helicoid is in this design totally independent from optical block (you can use optics with different helicoid and helicoid with different optics):
[/img] |
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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Tue May 15, 2012 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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pavko wrote:
I've made some progress:
* lens is focusing past infinity on M42 flange (probably even Nikon would be possible)
* M42 flange is spare mount for Zenitar 16mm
* lens barrel has been processed on lathe
* i clearly see possibility for aperature control
Next step is to make holes for screws and do some photos wide open. |
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ZoneV
 Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1648 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:20 am Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
| pavko wrote: |
...Some things cannot be done until someone will do them
.... |
+1
Long time Canon FD lenses "could not be used" on Canon EOS cameras.
Nowadays a lot of mount conversion descriptions are around.
Now it is still comon to say for Canon FD to EF mount conversion one must destroy the lens.
I showed it is possible without destroing (full reversible) even on Fd 85/1.2L and Fd 24/1.4L and others.
Please show more of your process! _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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trifox
 Joined: 14 May 2008 Posts: 3634 Location: UK
Expire: 2014-05-29
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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trifox wrote:
ZoneV, this lens can't be converted without a damage...
I have tried to do it and it's impossible task.
The same applies on FD 85 f1.8 SSC - that's another one.
I think the 85 f1.8 SSC is the worst I have ever tried.
tf _________________ Flickr.com |
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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 10:44 pm Post subject: |
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pavko wrote:
| ZoneV wrote: |
| Please show more of your process! |
Here we go:
I had to (not enough material to firm m42 plate properly) add some material to barrel and then lens visited lathe once again. Holes for screws done on press drill and tapped to M2:
Plate in place:
Side view so place for aperature ring is clearly visible:
Lens prepared for initial tests:
Next steps:
* Make link to aperture (copper or brass sheet of metal)
* Create aperture ring - Turn or print on 3d printer
| ZoneV wrote: |
| Now it is still comon to say for Canon FD to EF mount conversion one must destroy the lens. |
I'm doing this only because I bought this one already broken and that is only proper way to make it functional again.
| trifox wrote: |
| ZoneV, this lens can't be converted without a damage... |
Unfortunately this is true - the only way to use it fully is to buy mirrorless camera or shot on film.
No butchering please on good ones! |
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ZoneV
 Joined: 09 Nov 2009 Posts: 1648 Location: Germany
Expire: 2011-12-02
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Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:01 am Post subject: |
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ZoneV wrote:
| trifox wrote: |
ZoneV, this lens can't be converted without a damage...
I have tried to do it and it's impossible task.
The same applies on FD 85 f1.8 SSC - that's another one.
I think the 85 f1.8 SSC is the worst I have ever tried.
tf |
On some lenses the effort to make a reversible conversion is extremly high.
But I remember those years when people say converting Canon FD lenses to EF mount is destroying the lens - without exeption.
Now it is even possible buy buy reversible conversions of some lenses
In this case of pavko´s lens a non reversible conversion would not result in anger from the collectors of technical history. _________________ Camera modification, repair and DIY - some links to look through: http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/index-en.html
I AM A LENS NERD!
Epis, Elmaron, Emerald, Ernostar, Helioplan and Heidosmat.
Epiotar, Kameraobjektiv, Anastigmat, Epis, Meganast, Magnagon, Quinar, Culmigon, Novotrinast, Novflexar, Colorplan, Sekor, Kinon, Talon, Telemegor, Xenon, Xenar, Ultra, Ultra Star. Tessar, Janar, Visionar, Kiptar, Kipronar and Rotelar.
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francotirador
 Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Posts: 898
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Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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francotirador wrote:
Well I have two FD, a 24/2.8 SSC and a 135/2.5 SC as new and I'll put the barrel in the lathe. I value more the image that provide, that the collection object.
Best Regards
Sergio _________________ Canon 5D II-Sony nex 6
Canon L 80-200 f 2.8 - Canon L 135 f2 - Canon FD 135/2.5 convert to EOS - Yashica 50 1.4 ML - Canon FD 50 1.2 - Distagon 35mm 2.8 T AEJ - Minolta MC 24mm f 2.8 - Canon LTM 85 1.9- Canon LTM 85mm 1.9 convert to EOS - Rodenstock Heligon 50 1.9 - Color Skopar 50 2.8 & MAte Box & filters 4X4
Contax RTS II y Minolta SRT 303 - 28-135 3.6 Tokina - Minolta MD 45 f2.0 - Minolta Zoom 80 200 4.5 (Leica)
www.isgleasphoto.com
The life is more easy with this forum .... |
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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:18 am Post subject: |
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pavko wrote:
Ladies and Gents,
Please warmly welcome release candidate form of the project. It took longer than I expected but finally lens is ready to be used again. Changes that has been made include:
* new 3d printed aperture ring (with stops indicator - spring + metall ball) - project in OpenSCAD, printed on RepRap clone.
* aperture link made of brass and copper sheets of metal
* light baffle in mount
Pictrues bellow (all except screenshots taken using Zenitar M2s):
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Himself
 Joined: 01 Mar 2007 Posts: 3216 Location: Montreal
Expire: 2013-05-30
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Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 12:34 am Post subject: |
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Himself wrote:
Excellent job!
Now you have a L lens  _________________ Moderator Himself |
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pavko
 Joined: 31 Jan 2011 Posts: 216 Location: PL
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Posted: Wed Mar 27, 2013 11:17 pm Post subject: |
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pavko wrote:
Indeed
Especially looking at samples which show that this is very good performer. |
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