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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 3:06 pm Post subject: Bessa L Voigtlander 4.5/15mm Heliar Fuji Velvia 50 genuine |
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Attila wrote:
hi-res images are here
I under exposed almost any scene
These are the best ones
Film was expired in 12.2007, stored right in fridge.
#1 Small park for kids
#2 New community park at harbor Lagymanyos Budapest
#3
#4
#5
#6
_________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
Last edited by Attila on Mon Sep 29, 2008 4:15 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 3:12 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
A bit dark on my monitor, but very nice images, Attila. This lens clearly has balls. Another one for my wishlist!! _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Yes, all of them dark , I guess I need to control with external light meter. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Katastrofo
Joined: 26 Feb 2007 Posts: 10405 Location: USA
Expire: 2013-11-19
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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Katastrofo wrote:
I thought the meter in these were supposed to be accurate. Hummm. Nice
shots, tho, even if they are a little dark. |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
I have an another idea, perhaps need longer exposition because expired in 12.1997. What you think ? _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Laurence
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 4809 Location: Western Washington State
Expire: 2016-06-19
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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Laurence wrote:
Maybe a bit dark...but they all have PUNCH! _________________
Assent, and you are sane;
Demur,—you ’re straightway dangerous,
And handled with a chain.
Emily Dickinson
Cameras and Lenses in Use:
Yashica Mat 124 w/ Yashinon 80/3.5,
CV Apo-Lanthar 90/3.5SL, (Thank you Klaus),
Pentax 645,
Flek 50,
Pentax-A 150
Pentax-A 120 Macro
Voigtlander Vitomatic I w/Color Skopar 50/2.8
Konica TC and zoom lenses (thanks Carsten)
Contax AX
Yashica ML 50/2
Yashica ML 35/2.8
Carl Zeiss Contax 50/1.4
Tamron Adaptall SP 17/3.5
Tamron Adaptall 28/2.5
Tamron Adaptall SP 300/2.8 LD (IF)
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koji
Joined: 21 Jul 2008 Posts: 2106 Location: Hiroshima, Japan
Expire: 2012-12-27
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:42 pm Post subject: |
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koji wrote:
For super wide angles, you have to expose more since they contain
more sky area, which is normally brighter. _________________ Our Home Page has 18,200 photos in 575 directories today.
Lenses: https://www.pbase.com/kkawakami/top_level_my_lenses |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
koji wrote: |
For super wide angles, you have to expose more since they contain
more sky area, which is normally brighter. |
Yes Koji San, this is so true. One aperture or more ? _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:00 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Laurence wrote: |
Maybe a bit dark...but they all have PUNCH! |
They have lovely colors ,perhaps because a bit dark + Velvia 50 I guess. Thank you! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Attila wrote: |
koji wrote: |
For super wide angles, you have to expose more since they contain
more sky area, which is normally brighter. |
Yes Koji San, this is so true. One aperture or more ? |
Make it easier, put your hand in the open light, then go very close to it with the lens and meter your hand. The hand's reflectivity is close to the 18% grey of in-camera's lightmeter. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:23 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Should I put my hand into light path ? Try to cover sky ? _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Attila wrote: |
Should I put my hand into light path ? Try to cover sky ? |
No, you should meter your hand, like if your hand was the subject of your photo.
Once you have measured light this way, you can keep the value for all photos - until the light changes, of course. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Ah okay thank you!! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Schnauzer
Joined: 09 Apr 2008 Posts: 2155 Location: Maine, USA
Expire: 2012-03-08
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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Schnauzer wrote:
A little dark but nice shots Attila. I know everybody already said it. _________________ Ron |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Schnauzer wrote: |
A little dark but nice shots Attila. I know everybody already said it. |
Thank you ! Velvia slide did magic. I suppose I made double mistake I not counted sky parts well and this film need I suppose one stop more exposition. I will use as an ISO 25 film because it was a bit dark too when sky is not dominated.
What you think ? _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:34 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Attila wrote: |
Thank you ! Velvia slide did magic. I suppose I made double mistake I not counted sky parts well and this film need I suppose one stop more exposition. I will use as an ISO 25 film because it was a bit dark too when sky is not dominated.
What you think ? |
Be careful, because with slides, especially slow slides like 50 ISO, a variation of 1/3rd stop is already important. To treat it like a 25 ISO (a 3/3rds shift) regardless of conditions would mean a high risk of having to trash a lot of pictures.
What you say could work with B&W film but I would never recommend that method with slides. Slides require custom light metering for each shot more than negative film, and much more than B&W negative film.
If you are unsure of how much sky to consider for each photo, use the hand method. It works in 90% of the cases, the exceptions being the notable and well known limits of the 18% grey metering, that is, for instance, snowy landscapes. Alternatively, you need to spot, in your scene, an area that could work well compared to 18% grey, and spot-meter that. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:39 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
How about if I measure with digital cam ? When I get good result with digi cam I use same settings on film ? _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Attila wrote: |
How about if I measure with digital cam ? When I get good result with digi cam I use same settings on film ? |
That can be useful for you, to have a preview of the result before shooting the film.
If you want to get better at metering, however, I suggest you this path:
1) choose a scene (best if there is variety, such as both sunlight and shadows, pale objects and dark objects)
2) open the Gossen meter and try metering the scene in various modes: reflected light, incident light, spot light on selected objects (if available), and also grey card (or hand). Take note of the values.
3) Take DSLR and put it in Manual mode, and try to shoot with the different values you noted before. Compare the previews and see the differences.
4) pick your preferred setting and use it on the film camera.
This way you will not just make the good picture, but also learn how to do it without preview next time.
The above method is part of how I would teach photography to a child of mine if I had one. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Thank you for detailed instructions! _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:17 pm Post subject: |
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A G Photography wrote:
While the above methods are good and fine my personal taste really dislikes washed out or white skies.
IMHO, they kill a photo a lot more that some underexposition than you can always recover a bit in post production.
I'm not meaning you can cover errors in post production, it's a coscient choice. You go for the sky, to have well defined clouds, etc, and then try to balance a bit things after.
This if you don't have a neutral gradual filter of course, otherway it'd take care to underexpose the sky, but it would add some rigidity. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 57849 Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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Posted: Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:33 pm Post subject: |
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Attila wrote:
Yes, Allessandro sky is very important me too. I found very easy to modify scanned print film and harder to modify scanned slide in PS. I am a bit worried about slides perhaps I will shoot on film too. _________________ -------------------------------
Items on sale on Ebay
Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29545 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 6:32 am Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
Attila, you love detail in photos, and with negative film, you lose a lot of detail compared to slides. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
NE CEDE MALIS AUDENTIOR ITO
Ferrania film is reborn! http://www.filmferrania.it/
Support the Ornano film chemicals company and help them survive!
http://forum.mflenses.com/ornano-chemical-products-t55525.html |
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A G Photography
Joined: 11 May 2008 Posts: 1480 Location: Bologna - Italy
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Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 7:12 am Post subject: |
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A G Photography wrote:
Orio wrote: |
Attila, you love detail in photos, and with negative film, you lose a lot of detail compared to slides. |
I completely agree. I tried Reala and while its colours (especially in a nature setting) were wonderful the resolution is miles away from a Velvia. _________________ Alessandro
My Photography Website
My Blog about Photography and Italian Cuisine
My Photostream on Flickr
--------------------------------------------------------
DSLR: Nikon d80, Olympus e410
SLR: Chinon CX, Fujica ST605n, Nikon f601, Pentacon FM, Pentax Spotmatic SPII, Praktica FX, Praktica FX2, Voigtlander VST1, Yashica FX-3, Zeiss Contaflex
RF: Altissa Altix, Zorki Ie, Kiev 4b
Medium Format: Pentacon Six TL, Zeiss Ikonta 520/2, Mockba 4, Voigtlander Bessa I, Agfa Isolette II, Agfa Isola
Large Format: Cambo SC 4x5, Rodenstock Sinaron 150/5.6, Rodenstock Rodagon 150/5.6, Schneider Kreuznach Symmar 180/5.6
Lenses
Nikkors: 28/3.5 AIS, 35/2, 50/1.8, 50/2 H, Micro 55/3.5, Micro 60/2.8, 85/1.8, 135/3.5 AI, 200/4 NAI, 18-55/3.5-5.6, 28-80/3.5-5.6, 55-200/4-5.6
CY: Distagon 28/2.8, Planar 50/1.4, Yashika 50/1.7, Sonnar 135/2.8
CZJ m42-Exakta: Flektogon 20/4, Flektogon 35/2.8, Tessar 40/4.5, Tessar 50/2.8, Pancolar 50/1.8, Pancolar 50/2, Biotar 58/2, Biotar 75/1.5, Tessar 80/2.8, Sonnar 135/3.5, Sonnar 135/4, Triotar 135/4
CZJ P6: Flektogon 50/4, Flektogon 65/2.8, Biometar 80/2.8, Biometar 120/2.8, Sonnar 180/2.8
Meyer-Pentacon: Orestegon 29/2.8, Pentacon 29/2.8, Lydith 30/3.5, Primagon 35/4.5, Helioplan 40/4.5, Domiplan 50/2.8, Primotar 50/3.5, Oreston 50/1.8, Primoplan 58/1.9, Orestor 100/2.8, Trioplan 100/2.8, Helioplan 135/4.5, Orestor 135/2.8, Pentacon 135/2.8, Primotar 135/3.5, Primotar 180/3.5, Telemegor 180/5.5, Orestegor 200/4, Pentacon 200/4, Orestegor 300/4, Telemegor 300/4.5, Telemegor 400/5.5
Schneider-Kreuznach: Curtagon 28/4, Curtagon 35/2.8, Xenon 50/1.9, Xenar 50/2.8, Tele Xenar 135/3.5, Tele Xenar 200/4
Russians: Arsat Zodiak 30/3.5, Mir-I 37/2.8, Volna-9 50/2.8, Industar-50 50/3.5, Industar-61 50/2.8, Helios 44 58/2, Helios 44-2 58/2, Helios 44-M-4 58/2, Volna-3 80/2.8, Helios 40 85/1.5, Jupiter 9 85/2, Jupiter 11 135/4
Others: Chinon-Tomioka 55/1.4, Helios 28/2.8, Isco Iscotar 50/2.8, Konica Hexanon 40/1.8, Ludwig Meritar 50/2.9, Schacht Travegon 35/3.5, Schacht Travenon 135/4.5, Sekor 55/1.8, Sigma MF 28/2.8, S-Takumar, 28/3.5, S-Takumar 50/1.4, S-Takumar 55/1.8, S-Takumar 55/2, Steinheil Quinar 135/2.8, Steinheil Culminar 135/4.5, Vivitar 135/2.8, Voigtlander Ultron 50/1.8, Yashica Yashinon DX 50/1.4, Zuiko MC Auto-W 28/2.8
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