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calvin83
Joined: 12 Apr 2009 Posts: 7547 Location: Hong Kong
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Posted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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calvin83 wrote:
They have a eBay store too and here is the link to the tools.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Other-/162480/i.html?_ssn=japan-hobby-tool _________________ https://lensfever.com/
https://www.instagram.com/_lens_fever/
The best lens is the one you have with you. |
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cyrano
Joined: 15 Feb 2013 Posts: 855 Location: UK
Expire: 2016-12-30
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Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 4:52 am Post subject: |
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cyrano wrote:
Alex H wrote: |
Anyone can recommend good black enamel to repair lost paint on the camera body? Preferably withing EU. Thanks |
Seconded...................?
Very useful thread, I've ordered this set pf lens wrench, we shall see how they perform for the price.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200978102480?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 |
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nandakoryaaa
Joined: 07 Sep 2014 Posts: 95
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 12:58 pm Post subject: |
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nandakoryaaa wrote:
This is how I used a plastic mug for dismantling a Zeiss 50/4 (Sorry, I had no tools)
1. Find a mug of matching diameter (this red one matched nicely)
2. Put several pieces of two-sided scotch on the rim of the mug
3. Voila!
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philslizzy
Joined: 07 Aug 2012 Posts: 4747 Location: Cheshire, England
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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philslizzy wrote:
a great idea!!! _________________ Hero in the 'messin-with-cameras-for-the-hell-of-it department'. Official. |
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pentaxpete
Joined: 02 Dec 2011 Posts: 640 Location: BRENTWOOD England
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 12:52 pm Post subject: |
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pentaxpete wrote:
I read that you need 'JIS' screwdrivers NOT Philips type -- well I went to the Philippines and asked in a big store in Ayala Mall and told them I needed 'JIS' But the Guy sold me a set of small philips after all but it was less than £ 1-00 so I left it in Philippines for my Sister-in-law. Where can i get the small JIS type that is used for taking off the base-plate of my ME Super and such cameras ?
PS -- I am in ENGLAND and all the 'links' I have looked at are in American $$$$ and companies in USA ! _________________ Long Live REAL PHOTOGRAPHY ! |
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tb_a
Joined: 26 Jan 2010 Posts: 3678 Location: Austria
Expire: 2019-08-28
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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tb_a wrote:
pentaxpete wrote: |
I read that you need 'JIS' screwdrivers NOT Philips type -- well I went to the Philippines and asked in a big store in Ayala Mall and told them I needed 'JIS' But the Guy sold me a set of small philips after all but it was less than £ 1-00 so I left it in Philippines for my Sister-in-law. Where can i get the small JIS type that is used for taking off the base-plate of my ME Super and such cameras ?
PS -- I am in ENGLAND and all the 'links' I have looked at are in American $$$$ and companies in USA ! |
Have you already looked here?
http://www.micro-tools.de/en/home/
They are shipping from Germany which shouldn't be a problem to England (EU-domestic). _________________ Thomas Bernardy
Manual focus lenses mainly from Minolta, Pentax, Voigtlaender, Leitz, Topcon and from Russia (too many to be listed here). |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 9:26 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
When I took a camera repair class, the instructor said the correct screwdrivers to use are called "crosspoint". You can easily see the difference just by looking at them. A phillips is much pointier. I have successfully blunted phillips points with sandpaper or grinding stones so their point angle matches that of a crosspoint and this will work in a pinch.
I have found that typically the screwdrivers found in the small jeweler's screwdriver sets you see are crosspoints and not phillips. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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vanylapep
Joined: 03 Jan 2014 Posts: 312
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Posted: Thu Jan 07, 2016 5:00 am Post subject: |
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vanylapep wrote:
Can someone fix the OP post photos, they are not showing. Thanks! |
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Coyote7625
Joined: 21 Jul 2016 Posts: 1
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Posted: Thu Jul 21, 2016 12:54 pm Post subject: |
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Coyote7625 wrote:
I have the same problem vanylapep... I can't see the photos on the first page. Jesito, can you put again the photos of your first intervention?
Many thanks. |
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vroger
Joined: 23 Jul 2014 Posts: 623 Location: MN
Expire: 2016-10-21
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Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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vroger wrote:
Looking for a lens element suction tool.
Thoughts on where to get one? _________________ Roger Lund
Canon EOS-M, Fuji X-E2, Helois 44-0 Vintage, Helois 44-4, Canon FD 50mm 1.8, Jupiter 8 50mm F2, Jupiter 3 50mm F1.5, Canon Serenar 50mm 1.9, Canon 50mm 1.8 LTM, Canon Serenar 85mm F2, Leica 50mm f2 summar, E.Ludwig 50mm F2.9, Rekagon will.wetzlar 50mm 2.8,, a.schacht ulm travenar 135mm F3.5, CZJ 29mm 2.8 Hoya 28mm 2.8, CZ Tessar 50mm 2.8, MIR 37mm. 2.8, Porst Color Reflex MC 50mm 1.7, Vivitar 28mm 2.8 mc cf
http://photography.rogerlund.net
For sale: Canon EOS-M and MF Adapters. |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 8:09 pm Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
vroger wrote: |
Looking for a lens element suction tool.
Thoughts on where to get one? |
https://canonrepair.wordpress.com/2016/02/19/diy-suction-cap-for-lens-disassembling/ |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
vroger wrote: |
Looking for a lens element suction tool.
Thoughts on where to get one? |
There's also this set on eBay:
Click here to see on Ebay _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Gardener
Joined: 22 Sep 2013 Posts: 950 Location: USA
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 12:00 am Post subject: |
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Gardener wrote:
Or, if you are really frugal, you can take one of those bath hooks with locking hook.
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Jesito
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 5745 Location: Olivella, Catalonia, (Spain)
Expire: 2015-01-07
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2016 12:15 am Post subject: |
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Jesito wrote:
Coyote7625 wrote: |
I have the same problem vanylapep... I can't see the photos on the first page. Jesito, can you put again the photos of your first intervention?
Many thanks. |
Difficult, they were stored at Imageshack and when they went commercial and asking for money for keeping the pictures, they cleaned all the free accounts, (mine among them), so they are definitively lost.
I'll try to take some new pictures to replace those, but the first post was written quite a long time ago and I don't remember precisely which tools I was using at that time. _________________ Jesito, Moderator
Jesito's backsack:
Zooms Sigma 70-300, Tamron 35-135 and 70-210 short, 70-210 long, 28-70 CF Macro, 35-70, 35-80, Vivitar 70-210 KA, Tamron 70-250.
Fixed Industar-50, , Tamron 24mm, Tamron 135mm, Sands Hunter 135mm, Pancolar 50mm, Volna-3, many Exakta lenses
DSLR SIGMA SD9 & SD14, EOS 5D, Sony A700 and NEXF3, Oly E-330, E-400, E-450, E-1
TLR/6x6/645 YashicaMat, Petri 6x45, Nettar, Franka Solida, Brilliant
SLR Minolta X300, Fuji STX II, Praktica VLC3, Pentax P30t, EXA500, EXA 1A, Spotmatic(2), Chinon CM-4S, Ricoh, Contax, Konica TC-X , Minolta 5000, 7000i, 3Sxi, EOS 500 and CX
Rangefinders Chinon 35EE, Konica C35 auto, Canonet 28, Yashica Lynx, FED-2, Yashica electro 35, Argus C3 & C4, Regula Cita III, Voigtlander Vitoret (many), Welta Welti-I, Kodak Signette 35, Zorki-4, Bessa-R & L, Minolta Weathermatic, olympus XA2
Compact Film Konica C35V, Voigtlander Vitorets, Canon Prima Super 105, Olympus XA2 and XA3
Compact Digital Olympus C-5050, Aiptek Slim 3000, Canon Powershot A540, Nikon 5200, SIGMA DP1s, Polaroid X530, IXUS55, Kodak 6490, Powershot G9 and G10
CSCCanon EOS-M, Samsung NX100 and NX210, Lumix G5, NEX-F3 |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 901 Location: Essex UK
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Posted: Tue May 21, 2019 8:42 am Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
Isopropyl alcohol certainly works well, and I too keep a bottle handy. I prefer denatured, however, because the regular iso that you buy off the shelf at your local drug store is about half water, and after the alcohol evaporates, water remains. This can be a problem in some situations. With denatured alcohol, I don't have this problem.
It's worth noting that "lighter fluid" and naphtha are the same thing. |
As this is a sticky thread that will no doubt be frequently referred to (even if not updated regularly) I should point out:
There are quite a few types of Naphtha, most if not all are not the same as lighter fluid, several types will no doubt achieve the same results for cleaning lenses (as even gasoline might).
Some solvent naphthas are high in aromatics giving them excellent solvency - which would be good for cleaning glassware but extremely bad for some plastics.
Lighter fluid is typically very low in aromatics, and will evaporate quicker than many types of naphtha.
The petrochemical naphtha we make is more similar to gasoline than either of these (but only has an octane rating of around 50)
iso-propanol is indeed very good, its fully miscible with all common solvents, but not an excessively powerful solvent. I used HPLC grade from work which has very low water content, low residue & is checked for contaminants by UV. Best of all we have a constant supply of it for work |
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Blazer0ne
Joined: 12 Sep 2018 Posts: 836
Expire: 2024-12-07
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Posted: Tue May 21, 2019 1:59 pm Post subject: |
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Blazer0ne wrote:
...
Last edited by Blazer0ne on Tue Feb 22, 2022 5:22 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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DConvert
Joined: 12 Jun 2010 Posts: 901 Location: Essex UK
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Posted: Wed May 22, 2019 8:29 am Post subject: |
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DConvert wrote:
Blazer0ne wrote: |
DConvert, Adding my personal garage level experience with over the counter solvents... Hopefully it will compliment your lab experience.
I can confirm that hardware store naptha does soften vinyl work mats and may remove lens element paint. It also evaporates somewhat slower and cuts through oil (tar and grease) nicely.
When cleaning the entire surface of an assembled lens I try to avoid any solvents that evaporate super fast like denatured alcohol or iso-propyl 90%. I only use those solvents when the element is open and separate from the lens housing.
What I have noticed is that the rapid evaporation is causing cooling of the element, which may draw condensation into the backside group or housing.
The most critical personally; Decreased work time because of rapid evaporation may find yourself with no solvent to float the oils while wiping.
Adding a slower evap solvent like Zeiss lens cleaner after applying a rapid evaporating solvent can help with post cleanup of oils without the possibility of ending up with a dry scratchy texwipe, pecpad, cotton swab or kimwipe.
Also note that there is a good chance that many solvents will require the side of an element to be re-painted black.
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Any hydrocarbon solvent will be likely to do all the things you mentioned. Depending on your desired rate of evaporation gasoline, lighter fluid, white spirit, kerosene, or diesel could all be used (listed in decreasing volatility) the last few will leave residues that don't simply evaporate away.
I'm not sure quite what American 'hardware store naptha' is, but I suspect it's a paint thinner/brush cleaner like our white spirit - a turpentine substitute (sometimes sold under that name at higher prices).
Within each of the volatility ranges there will be a wide range of compositions (I've seen hundreds of different gasolines - some very different from each other) which will cause differences in solvency. A highly paraffinic solvent will have less solvency and so be less likely to remove paint or attack plastics, but will still swell rubber & lift most oils etc. Highly aromatic formulations have better solvency but are more harmful both to you & to plastics etc.
The elements I'm currently working on are proving difficult to get totally clear even using aggressive solvents like acetone, but they are gradually improving - you could barely see through them when I started, now after two tries they've almost reached the point where I wouldn't have felt the need to strip them from the lens i.e. almost good enough that I could make do, certainly not good enough to consider done. |
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aidaho
Joined: 29 Apr 2018 Posts: 456 Location: Ukraine
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Posted: Wed May 22, 2019 9:01 am Post subject: |
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aidaho wrote:
Perhaps the best way to avoid or minimize scrubbing of highly contaminated surface is the same as with anything else: give it a proper soak.
By proper, I mean several days of it.
I wouldn't do this to a group though.
Whether it looks glued or not, there is a chance of getting solvent inside, and that would create a bigger problem than the initial haze was. _________________ https://www.flickr.com/photos/curry-hexagon/ |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Wed May 22, 2019 9:23 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I use the naphtha that's available at the big box stores -- dunno specifically what it is, although I guess the fine print on the can will tell me. I've used it for years, however, without harmful effects. I also use naphtha when finishing guitars. I use a method known as "french polish" where naphtha is lightly mixed with the shellac as a means of extending it before it becomes tacky. But that's a whole different world from cameras.
As for iso-proponal, I wish I could find 100%, the best I've been able to find is 70%. I find that denatured alcohol is a more powerful solvent anyway, but I suspect that one should use it with caution because I know it can damage finishes, so it might also be a bit too agressive with some plastics. But it is a great solvent, and is also a main ingredient in the "french polish" process, which is why I always keep some around. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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visualopsins
Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 10462 Location: California
Expire: 2021-06-22
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Posted: Wed May 22, 2019 10:54 am Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
Amazon has everything. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
Cameras: Sony A7Rii, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII, Nikon P4
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Lenses:
Takumar 1:4 f=35mm, 1:2 f=58mm (Sonnar), 1:2.4 f=58mm (Heliar), 1:2.2 f=55mm (Gaussian), 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), 1:2.8/105 (Model II), 1:5.6/200
Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, 1:6.3/300
Macro-Takumar 1:4/50
Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, 1:1.8 f=55mm, 1:2.2 f=55mm
Super-TAKUMAR 1:3.5/28 (fat), 1:2/35 (Fat), 1:1.4/50 (8-element),
Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17
Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMAR 1:4.5/20, 1:3.5/24, 1:3.5/28, 1:2/35, 1:3.5/35, 1:1.8/85, 1:1.9/85 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, 1:4/300, 1:4.5/500
Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMAR 1:4/50, 1:4/100
Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100
SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, 1:1.8/55
Other lenses:
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.4/35
SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm, SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:4 45~125mm
Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51B), Tamron SP 17mm f/3.5 (51BB), SP 500mm f/8 (55BB), SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Vivitar 100mm 1:2.8 MC 1:1 Macro Telephoto
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1101
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Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2022 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
Hi everyone, I'm trying to clean a yashica ML 50mm 1.4 optic full of fungus , but this lens has been glued on every part possible . I've got rid of the front name plate ring , and the ring to remove elements on front group, but i stil need to remove the mount ring that has the 4 screws ,with acetone I've had luck with everything that I've opened till now, but not further more. Any advice ? |
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RokkorDoctor
Joined: 27 Nov 2021 Posts: 1250 Location: Kent, UK
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Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 10:46 am Post subject: |
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RokkorDoctor wrote:
kiddo wrote: |
Hi everyone, I'm trying to clean a yashica ML 50mm 1.4 optic full of fungus , but this lens has been glued on every part possible . I've got rid of the front name plate ring , and the ring to remove elements on front group, but i stil need to remove the mount ring that has the 4 screws ,with acetone I've had luck with everything that I've opened till now, but not further more. Any advice ? |
I sometimes encounter mount screws that are simply stuck, no matter what.
First, from the images of that lens I have seen on-line, it looks like (as expected really) the mount screws have JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) heads. They don't have the JIS indicator dot(s), but the shape of the crosshead looks like a JIS crosshead to me. On stuck JIS screws you really don't want to be using a Philips screwdriver, use an appropriate JIS screw driver.
You say the lens is full of fungus, which indicates a period of storage at high humidity levels. I'm not 100% sure what materials are involved here (likely steel screws in an aluminium alloy base), but it is possible to get corrosion building up in the threads between the screw and lens base, which may not necessarily be evident from the exterior appearance. If so, no amount of acetone is going to help, but a small amount of a penetrating oil (like WD-40) that breaks down the oxide layer may (I stress may) do the trick. I would normally advise to keep agents like WD-40 far away from any lens, but on stuck screws it may be of use. Just place a tiny amount in the round recess for the screw head only and let it penetrate into the thread for a a few hours.
A heated screwdriver applied to the screw head also sometimes works, but it is rarely enough to break an oxide bond or soften a thread-lock compound.
Sometimes a well-fitting screwdriver inserted in the screw sharply hit with a light hammer can break it loose, but be careful not to damage anything.
Bear in mind that on old lenses, sometimes things simply have got stuck beyond the ability to get them undone without excessive damage to other parts. It happens. _________________ Mark
SONY A7S, A7RII + dust-sealed modded Novoflex/Fotodiox/Rayqual MD-NEX adapters
Minolta SR-1, SRT-101/303, XD7/XD11, XGM, X700
Bronica SQAi
Ricoh GX100
Minolta majority of all Rokkor SR/AR/MC/MD models made
Sigma 14mm/3.5 for SR mount
Tamron SP 60B 300mm/2.8 (Adaptall)
Samyang T-S 24mm/3.5 (Nikon mount, DIY converted to SR mount)
Schneider-Kreuznach PC-Super-Angulon 28mm/2.8 (SR mount)
Bronica PS 35/40/50/65/80/110/135/150/180/200/250mm |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1101
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Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 11:50 am Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
RokkorDoctor wrote: |
kiddo wrote: |
Hi everyone, I'm trying to clean a yashica ML 50mm 1.4 optic full of fungus , but this lens has been glued on every part possible . I've got rid of the front name plate ring , and the ring to remove elements on front group, but i stil need to remove the mount ring that has the 4 screws ,with acetone I've had luck with everything that I've opened till now, but not further more. Any advice ? |
I sometimes encounter mount screws that are simply stuck, no matter what.
First, from the images of that lens I have seen on-line, it looks like (as expected really) the mount screws have JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) heads. They don't have the JIS indicator dot(s), but the shape of the crosshead looks like a JIS crosshead to me. On stuck JIS screws you really don't want to be using a Philips screwdriver, use an appropriate JIS screw driver.
You say the lens is full of fungus, which indicates a period of storage at high humidity levels. I'm not 100% sure what materials are involved here (likely steel screws in an aluminium alloy base), but it is possible to get corrosion building up in the threads between the screw and lens base, which may not necessarily be evident from the exterior appearance. If so, no amount of acetone is going to help, but a small amount of a penetrating oil (like WD-40) that breaks down the oxide layer may (I stress may) do the trick. I would normally advise to keep agents like WD-40 far away from any lens, but on stuck screws it may be of use. Just place a tiny amount in the round recess for the screw head only and let it penetrate into the thread for a a few hours.
A heated screwdriver applied to the screw head also sometimes works, but it is rarely enough to break an oxide bond or soften a thread-lock compound.
Sometimes a well-fitting screwdriver inserted in the screw sharply hit with a light hammer can break it loose, but be careful not to damage anything.
Bear in mind that on old lenses, sometimes things simply have got stuck beyond the ability to get them undone without excessive damage to other parts. It happens. |
Thank you so much for your answer .
The fungus has cleaned away pretty nice, a bit of the edges coatings affected left over on the front group I could remove till now.
The screws are JIS and I'm using specific screwdriver , the screws are mare of steel just as the mount, but I assume they are screwed into aluminum. The front group has a ring to use with a spanner to open it , but that one is glued also , after two days of acetone applying ,no results at all. Otherwise the lens is brand new , I can see the focusing ring's screws inside the lens (3 of them steel made) all have a red glue on top of them and surrounding. Just as the retaining front ring for the front grip , that I was able to open with acetone ,I assume most of the threaded parts have the same glue so no corrosion suspicious at all. I've read about using CRC brake cleaner (the red one) to unlock red glue on threads , or using a very fine torch to heat up properly to get em loosen. I assume repair shops would have a better option but i don't know any other one and I feel bad because of this lens, that is supposed to fill the gap on my c/ymissing FL |
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cooltouch
Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
When I suspect corrosion, I usually turn to the heavy duty stuff -- automotive penetrant like Liquid Wrench or Sea Foam Deep Creep or other similar products. I've also had good luck with glued items using Goof Off's Pro Strength Remover, which is intended for removing adhesives and glues and even dried paint. It smells like acetone, but there are probably additives. And, as RokkorDoctor mentioned with WD-40, it should be applied very sparingly. Perhaps with a blunted toothpick so it can be precisely applied. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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kiddo
Joined: 29 Jun 2018 Posts: 1101
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Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2022 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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kiddo wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
When I suspect corrosion, I usually turn to the heavy duty stuff -- automotive penetrant like Liquid Wrench or Sea Foam Deep Creep or other similar products. I've also had good luck with glued items using Goof Off's Pro Strength Remover, which is intended for removing adhesives and glues and even dried paint. It smells like acetone, but there are probably additives. And, as RokkorDoctor mentioned with WD-40, it should be applied very sparingly. Perhaps with a blunted toothpick so it can be precisely applied. |
Thanks for your reply, but I can't find the products you recommend in Europe . As for acetone applying ,I'm using a small syringe to allow only the right amount on top of the screws , but no luck after two days . |
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