Basic techniques to repair lenses (and cameras)

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas

Very nice kit, Jesito.

I took a camera repair class taught by a grizzled old repair guy about 20 years ago, and learned a few things from him. One has to do with screwdrivers. He pointed out that the screws found in cameras that look like Philips actually aren't -- they're "cross point." According to him, the angle of the tip is different. Cross points have a shallower angle than Philips. It was not easy to find cross-point screwdrivers, though. I think of my three or four sets of "jeweler's screwdrivers," only one is cross points. Used to be, back then, you could buy repair tools from Vivitar, and I bought several cross point and slotted screwdrivers from them. Still have 'em.

A couple of items I'd add to Jesito's list are: Naphtha -- a great all-around solvent for getting gummed up things ungummed up. Useful for shutters and other precision areas. And PlioBond -- or contact cement, if you can't find Pliobond. They're essentially the same thing. This is a flexible cement that works great for reattaching rubber focusing grips to lens barrels that may have come loose, or for reattaching leatherettes to camera bodies. Sometimes you don't need it with the leatherettes. You can use acetone to "reactivate" the dried out adhesive on the leatherette and it will re-adhere itself to the camera body.

I will also use denatured alcohol and cotton swabs (Q-tips) for some cleaning chores. Like, for example, a Canon FTb I bought last year. The mirror cushion had rotted and a previous owner smeared the rotted rubber across the focusing screen. It was a mess. I didn't feel like having to dismantle the top end of the camera to remove the focusing screen and give it a proper cleaning, so I thought I'd try a cotton swab soaked in denatured alcohol. Wiped it across the focusing screen, and to my surprise, it removed all traces of the gunky sticky rubber residue. I had a spotlessly clean focusing screen. This combination also works well just for general detail cleaning of a camera or lens's exterior.

Also, I've passed along this recommendation here before from time to time, and I will again. If you get stuck and you have questions that folks here can't answer -- like say you're taking apart a fairly complicated zoom lens or hoping to fix a camera's meter -- then I recommend you drop in at the camera repair forum over at KY Photo:

Go here and click on "Maintenance and Repair."

http://www.kyphoto.com/cgi-bin/forum/discus.cgi

There are some very knowledgeable folks who hang out there, including Rick Oleson, a well-known repair guy. I've gotten help several times from forum members when I was stuck.

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

Thanks for your comments, cooltouch.

Regarding solvents, I do prefer to use Isopropylic alcohol, either pure or dilluted to a 70% (depending on the application), although I keep a can of lighter fluid for the case it's needed.

Regards.

Jes.

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas

Isopropyl alcohol certainly works well, and I too keep a bottle handy. I prefer denatured, however, because the regular iso that you buy off the shelf at your local drug store is about half water, and after the alcohol evaporates, water remains. This can be a problem in some situations. With denatured alcohol, I don't have this problem.

It's worth noting that "lighter fluid" and naphtha are the same thing. Cool

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas

The denatured alcohol I buy has less than 10% of the denaturing additives, which I don't really consider to be a problem. Some folks develop a sensitivity to these additives, however, so I should probably add a cautionary note about its use -- use protective gloves, don't inhale fumes, etc.

ZoneV · Expire: 2011-12-02

I worked with a spanner wrench at work and was dissapointed.
My modified big old caliper was much better - here are some pictures of it:
http://www.4photos.de/camera-diy/kamera-reparatur-werkzeug.html
It is big enoug for all the lenses I open Very Happy

For some tasks I use a part of a bicycle tube. The rubber is good to open some filter rings. But I still need something like those rubbers you mentioned.

For flash capacitor draining I build a adjustable resistor with high voltag cables - but I think there are better commercial devices to buy - for less money.

I use Wiha PicoFinish Phillips screwdrivers.

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

berraneck · Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 11:06 pm Post subject:

That�s a great thread here! Thanks Jesito!

Could you please advice some supplier of these tools? Where to get them, what prices are appropriate, what to seek for?

Thanks!

b

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

berraneck · Posted: Tue Nov 02, 2010 11:56 pm Post subject:

I would like to repair some of my Zuiko lenses - first 50/1.8, after some practising 50/1.2. I haven�t done anything like that before.

I pretend i would need a spanner wrench, some screwdivers, something to grab lenses with, some finger gloves? For start, just basic tools.

dainiuss · Joined: 05 Nov 2010 Posts: 5 Location: UK

Any recommendation on where can I buy/how to make myself the lens unscrewing tubes?

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

Some spanners from Micro Tools: Not so cheap, but look nice:

Micro Tools Spanners

Regards.

Jes.

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

Also from Micro Tools there is a nice Lens Ring Tool Set

Here is the one set that fits most common lens rings leaving the center clear for the glass portion of the lens. Sizes are 13, 19, 21, 24, 29, 30, 36, 37, 44, 45, 54 & 62mm:

(BTW, I'm not related in any way to Micro Tools, just found them as an alternative to the MFLenses tools, and thought it could be useful for the colleagues )

Regards.

Jes.

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas

I have a set of those spanners, Jesito, and I do not recommend them. Not only are they way overpriced, but those interchangeable tips slip out of place and move around. The result is a scarred lens element or front ring -- or both. If you insist on using one of those sets, be very careful with it. It works well only if the ring is not very tight.

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

dainiuss · Joined: 05 Nov 2010 Posts: 5 Location: UK

Thanks for your links Jesito, indeed very helpful!

Jesito · Expire: 2015-01-07

aliasant · Joined: 17 Feb 2010 Posts: 39 Location: Stockholm, Sweden

Great Thread !

I have taken apart quite a few old lenses with varying results but one thing I havnt been able to figure out is how to repaint the numbers and lines?

I want to repaint quite a few lenses were the color is almost or even completely gone.

What kind of paint is normally used or could be used?

There are probably new kinds of paint that might work better then the old ones?

cooltouch · Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9097 Location: Houston, Texas

Assuming the numbers are recessed and not silkscreened onto the lens, I've heard of it done the following way:

Buy model airplane enamel paint in the small bottles in the colors you need.

Using the tip of a toothpick, first clean out the number or line "grooves" with alcohol to remove all traces of dirt and grime. Let the alcohol evaporate.

Using the tip of another toothpick, dip it into the paint and push the paint into the number or line grooves. Dip a cotton swab into paint thinner, and wipe across the lens body or part over the number or line grooves, then wipe clean with a paper towel. If necessary, add a bit of paint thinner to the paper towel and wipe over the lens body or part again.

You should have wet paint down into the number grooves now and the excess traces of paint should have been removed with the cotton swab and paper towel. Let the paint dry.

aliasant · Joined: 17 Feb 2010 Posts: 39 Location: Stockholm, Sweden

pat donnelly

Jesito

Many thanks for a very thorough primer on repair!

You live in a very beautiful part of the world!

Pat

Sevo · Expire: 2012-12-03