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Barry's 2-Bath (title change)
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 4:58 pm    Post subject: Barry's 2-Bath (title change) Reply with quote

Well, I'm gearing up to do my first rolls.

raw chems for Barry's 2-bath

mixed

reviewing some steps


Hope to post a few in a couple days.


Last edited by Katastrofo on Fri Nov 06, 2009 10:50 pm; edited 1 time in total


PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck, Bill!
You seem to have everything under control... Smile
Looking forward to see the (for sure will be) nice results.

Regards,

Jes.


PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck, Bill. It's a doddle, just don't swig the fixer. Smile


PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

katastrofo wrote:
raw chems for Barry's 2-bath

Excellent choice, Bill Wink . Good luck!

Cheers, Marty.


PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that prepared chemicals is easier... nonetheless good dev.
Take your time loading the film, after all is simple Cool


PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, guys, hope things go smoothly. Will post even if it doesn't. Laughing


PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2009 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Give em Hell Bill!

JK
Have fun that's the most important part to success. Very Happy


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 1:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy, I used the apron as I can spool that 10 out of 10 times, no problem! Laughing Stainless steel is running 6 out of 10 times without buckling, etc.

Well, I see something on the negs, looks a little dark and have some
discoloration on some where the raised sprockets of the apron touched
the film. I'll be scanning in about an hour. The last three are so streaked
and discolored, reminds me of Orio's post. Sad


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My very first one:



Yup, needs work. lol Bath A: 5 mins @21C, Bath B @4 mins 21C, agitation
for 15 secs with each minute, then Stop for 2 minutes, Fixer for 3 minutes,
rinse (Ilford method) and final rinse with LFN (one drop to 16oz of distilled
water).

It's about the indentations on the apron making these marks. Hummm.
This is from a Yashica A a friend gave me, has the Yashicor triplet lens, and
used one of the several rolls of TMAX 400 (exp 2002) he sent along with the
camera.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Katastrofo wrote:


It's about the indentations on the apron making these marks..


This is one of the issues I have with apron tanks; I guess it is better to master the techniques of loading a Jobo 1501 (or Hewes) but of course YMMV.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a 120 Simmons reel that is similar to the Hewes, if not mistaken. I
was looking at the prices for Jobo tanks and reels at Freestyle and am
wondering why something made of plastic costs 5 times more than anything
else? Is the plastic cloned? Virgin? To cool it after casting is it thrust in
glacial meltwater blessed by the Pope? I'm just wondering here, is all. A
lot of folks use Jobos, definitely the Bentley in the crowd...

I think my agitation method exacerbated these holes in the negs. I'm thinking
inversions would have been much better since flow seems to be
the problem the further inward to the spiral. The tank made for this locks
the apron down to where it can't move, whereas the original Kodak had a
weight placed on top, perhaps allowing for better flow of chemicals, dunno.

Bill


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work, despite the negative marks. But the first dev is often not the easier. Try stirring inversion maybe.

But negative is good, b&w has a large gray scale, its good for a start !


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Bill. Pity for those marks, the neg looks otherwise fine, excellent highlight detail and good shadows. In my experience that kind of marks are an agitation issue. I had that problem with some 35mm negs. I was agitating by inversion a tank that's intended for spinning agitation and got consistently that kind of mark. Switching back to spinning solved definitively the problem.
So the problem should be in how the fluids are flowing on the film surface.

Cheers, Marty.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some fine light you captured, Bill... and my hat's off to you for going so retro right off the bat.

I agree re Jobo (and Paterson) prices... I bought a Spanish made reel/tank combo that's much cheaper, perhaps it is not as well finished, but it gets the job(o) done. The reels feature the extra large loading tab which seems to make things easier.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats Bill!

Yep there is work ahead, but I promise once you're over that edge, there is plenty of fun waiting and quite rewarding results!! I miss my darkroom, I had years ago actually when I see that...


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Bill
Your exposure looks good here.
I agree on this apron. Chuck it! It's too narrow for the film.
The evilwoman who used to live here took the old Kodak ones that we had.
She actually was the only one to use them and got very good results.
I don't recall seeing these types of "pinch" marks.

Are you pre-soaking in warm water before developing?
It can really help even things up by softening the emulsion.
Especially with old expired rolls.
Presoaking also warms the tank up. This way your developer is not cooled down by a cold tank as soon as it hits.

As to curling.
I do my final rinse with pretty warm water and hang films with a weighted Clip attached to one end. (fridge magnet clip with a chunk of metal on the magnet)
I have one of those neg-Ion air cleaner things.
There is a closet in the house I will pull it into and let it run for a half hour.
Then When I hang the films in there the dust is way down or none.
Weighted hanging really helps with the curl IMHO. Not the perfect solution but, every bit helps.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, fellas, for your replies, I will keep working at it. If I could have
used a stainless steel reel, outcome probably would have been better.
Will try being more patient and load one next time. The apron is just so
laughably easy and fast. Arista has quit making the tanks used for these
aprons and it would be great to be able to do two rolls at a time.

I will leave it in the fixer longer next time around, too.

Thanks again,

Bill


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andy, I prewashed in same temp as the chems, will try a warmer wash
next time, didn't know I could without clouding the neg or whatever. I
didn't have the dust problem at all (hung negs in the shower and weighted).
But this old film still was very stiff and curled edge to edge and curled in a
compound fashion lengthwise. Thinking this old film never saw the inside
of a freezer or refrigerator. Will try my Arista I just got, next time. Still
have the roll from my 1937 Bessa to do tonight. Thinking about camping in
the closet till I can load the bugger on a stainless steel reel. Laughing

Thanks for the advice! Smile


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Katastrofo wrote:
Andy, I prewashed in same temp as the chems, will try a warmer wash
next time, didn't know I could without clouding the neg or whatever. I
didn't have the dust problem at all (hung negs in the shower and weighted).
But this old film still was very stiff and curled edge to edge and curled in a
compound fashion lengthwise. Thinking this old film never saw the inside
of a freezer or refrigerator. Will try my Arista I just got, next time. Still
have the roll from my 1937 Bessa to do tonight. Thinking about camping in
the closet till I can load the bugger on a stainless steel reel. Laughing

Thanks for the advice! Smile


Yeah don't go too warm. My guess is 5-10F higher than them chemistry is fine.
I soak for 5 mins with a couple of inversions. The water is bluish-black when I pour it off (tmax anyway).
If your film was that abused. All bets are off Laughing
Best save judgment for a fresh roll.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, lots of blue dye with the TMAX, glad I prewashed it. Will try fresh
Arista next time. Wink


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sure hope that Tmax does not get blacklisted around here.
It's still one of my favorites.
Here is my first scan with the V700 of Tmax100 from a couple years ago.
Need to probably scan this one a couple times and stack it up.
The highlights are clipped in the scan. Not in the wet print. Still works.



PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, Andy. Impressive.

Cheers, Marty.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always liked that shot, it's on the wall, right? The 100 has finer grain than
the 400, might order some of that next time. Here's the other two I worked
on (shot a lot of the same thing just to burn up the roll). Agitation, not long
enough fixer time, and tired old film didn't help these:




The last 3 shots towards the inside of the spiral were dumpers.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I kind of like those edge squidges.


PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2009 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nesster wrote:
I kind of like those edge squidges.


Oh? Well, I haven't warmed up to them, but thanks! Laughing