Adobe RGB or SRGB for Laboratories?

[Orio]

Do you print your digital photos at home, or do you use the services of Photo Printing Labs?

I recently had some prints done by a Lab from my digital photos. I gave them a DVD of my photos, converted to TIF and in Adobe RGB colorspace.
Well, the prints turned out much desaturated. Just like when you convert to JPGs for web and forget to convert colorspace from Adobe RGB to SRGB.

So I am wondering, perhaps the photo labs use SRGB as standard color space?
(Maybe they do that because they think that most people will have SRGB turned on by default and not even know about colorspace?)

What are your experiences on the subject?
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[LucisPictor]

As far as I know, it is better to hand in the photos in sRGB.
Two reasons:

1) You have a better control what the photos look like afterwards. Our screens cannot show AdobeRGB.

2) In AdobeRGB are "more" colours. But those cannot be reproduced by mini-labs. Thus they need to re-calculate the colour-workspace which, if not exactly done, results in rather flat colours.

I shoot in AdobeRGB, to have some kind of reserve, but then convert during post production into sRGB. It is, however, a good idea to store in AdobeRGB, since if you need to provide photos for magazine printing there will be better results for the convertion into CMYK.

Carsten
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There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS500, Spotmatic SPII, Yashica-24, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Kiron: 2/28;70-210 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;2.8/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 1.7/50;2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Petri2.8/28; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; 2.8/135; Weltblick3.5/135; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65

[Orio]

[zipp]

wow! This thread is the answer to my prayers!

Untill now, I've tried to use my printer, home... I did use the labs... but the result was I lost a good piece of quality on transfering the image on paper. (I did use just Adobe RGB savings)

Thanks a lot for advice.
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Angel

[LucisPictor]

You're welcome.

But please don't be too disappointed if you do not get the results you want immediately.

If you print yourself, you need to do some colour adjusting (of display and printer).

In a mini-lab I always ask them not to "work" at the photos but to leave them the way they are. Mostly they will deteriorate their quality if they try to improve them.

Their regular post production is good for the common snapshot, but not for crazy guys like us who optimise their digital images at home.

Fortunately, after a while I have found a rather good mini-lab. The guys there are quite flexible.

Carsten
_________________
There are two kinds of people in the world: those who divide the world into two kinds of people, and those who don’t.
"Schnäppchenjäger" | "KAPCTEH" | "Karusutenu" | "Carsten" | T-shirt?
Cams in use: EOS 40D, EOS 350D, EOS500, Spotmatic SPII, Yashica-24, EXA I & 1c, Zenit EM; Oly 35RC,Minolta Hi-Matic E & F, Ricoh 500RF, Yashica Electro 35 GS, FED-3b and some others...
Lenses in use: Asahi Pentax: 2.8/28;3.5/35;1.4/50;1.7/50;2.8/105;28-80 | Canon (AF):1.8/50;17-85;75-300 | Former GDR: Pentacon 3.5/30; Pentaflex 1.8/50; CZJ 2.8/50; CZJ 4/135; Pentacon 4/200 | Fujinon: 43-75 | Hanimex: 3.5/23; 4/100;80-200 | Hoya: 25-42;80-205 | Kiron: 2/28;70-210 | Leica: Elmarit-R 2.8/35 | Mamiya: 1.8/55 | Minolta: 1.7/50 | Nikkor: 2.8/24;2/35;2/50;1.2/55;1.8/85;3.5/135 | West German: Ludwig 2.9/50; Meyer 2.8/100; Will 4.5/105; Schneider 3.5/135;Enna 3.5/135; Zeiss 4/135;Isco 4/135; Enna 4.5/240 | Olympus: 3.5/28;1.4/50;3.5/135 | Rikenon: 1.7/50;35-70 | Rollei/Voigtländer: 1.4/55;1.8/50 | Russian: Peleng3.5/8; Zenitar2.8/16; MIR2.8/37; Volna2.8/50; Industar3.5/50; Industar3.5/5cm; Helios2/50; Helios2/58; Volna2.8/80; Jupiter2/85; Kaleinar2.8/100;Tair2.8/135; Jupiter3.5/135; Jupiter4/135; Telear3.5/200; Jupiter4/200; Tair4.5/300;RF: Jupiter2.8/35;Industar2.8/53 | Sigma: 28-85;28-105(AF);17-70(AF) | Soligor: 28-105;35-200;70-220 | Tamron: 2.5/24;2.5/135;2.8/135;60-300;70-210 | Tokina: 28-105;80-200;12-24(AF);70-210(AF) | Vivitar: 3.5/17;2/24;2/28;2.5/28;2.8/28 | Yashica: 1.7/50;2/5cm | Other Japanese: Cosina3.8/20; Petri2.8/28; Albinar2.8/28; Porst1.8/35; 2.8/135; Weltblick3.5/135; Beroflex 8/500; Spiratone28-200; Maginon70-210
Green are the lenses I shoot the most.
More? http://forum.mflenses.com/viewtopic.php?t=65

[Rob Leslie]

First and foremost. ALL good labs will make it clear what colour space they use. If they don't I would think twice about using them. For the chepo prints plain old sRGB is best, but there is a Fuji profile. FF frontier Print PD but it is doubtfull the machines at Tesco/Asda will be set up anyway
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Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user.
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com

[Orio]

[Rob Leslie]

[Orio]

[Rob Leslie]

The usual problem with poor prints is a mismatch of colour profiles. First check your profile in Photoshop – Edit – Colour settings set the box ‘working spaces’ RGB to your colour space sRGB or Adobe RGB. Then check your image – Image – Mode – assign or Convert to profile. Now when you print always use Print with preview. A box opens and you set Colour Management and then below Print space profile and pick your profile whatever you set PS at. Then Print and go as normal picking your paper and size but go Custom Advanced ICM. The printer then takes the colour instruction from PS. Assuming all is right with your printer no blocked heads, paper type and the monitor is right it should match. No good getting a Canon printer (Nothing wrong with them) but Epson have always been the best. I run mine on cheap ink and have for years (The Photo Ex for 8 years) it even prints a BW with no colour cast. I wouldn’t go for any other printer because of the cost of ink. If I pay that much for ink I might as well have the pro do it for me.

Edit Out of interest I just checked the colour profiles in Adobe RGB and sRGB in PS. Adobe is redder. if you do nothing and you are shooting Adobe RGB your printer will print its default version of RGB so that is why your prints look red.
_________________
Pentax K10D & K100D. Many Tamron Adaptall SP lenses, Fujinon f4.5 400mm. A loved Lens Baby 2, Lubitel triplet +++ and many many film cameras. Mainly a Digital user.
http://roblesliephotography.blogspot.com

[ChrisLilley]

[poilu]

I am very happy with my R265 epson printer.
In PC
- AdobeRGB
- Printer Manages Color
- Relative Colorimetric
In Epson
- Color Controls
- Gamma 2.2
- Color Mode : Adobe RGB

I have a lot of A3 print in my kitchen and as my printer is only A4 I glue 2 pages.
Lot of people see my print and nobody never ask me why they are cut
I also print posters 3x3 A4 but it's tricky to cut & glue them
Service like colormailer ask 20 euros for a 60x90 and print on pigment inkjet
I should give a try but I don't wait better result
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Have a nice day

[Juanma]

In general, use sRGB unless:

- You print yourself your photos, as Poilu
- You know your lab very well, and they use AdobeRGB (most of them don't)

If you shoot RAW, the choose between AbobeRGB/sRGB is done in the computer, not in the camera. RAW is always the best idea.

In my opinion, for usual shots (not very big printed and not heavy processed), AdobeRGB is only a burden.
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Juanma

Canon EOS 600 | Praktica MTL5B | Zorki 4K | Jupiter 8 | Flektogon 4/20 | Pentacon 2,8/29 | Flektogon 2,4/35 | Tessar 2,8/50 | Industar 50-2 | Jupiter 9 | Sonnar 3,5/135 | Some AF stuff | A couple of MF lenses coming...