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Acros 100 and Barry's 2-Bath
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:03 am    Post subject: Acros 100 and Barry's 2-Bath Reply with quote
This is my first go using the Paterson reel/tank for 120:




These are just test shots for developing I took this afternoon up on Monte Sano, but am happier with these results than the 35mm Arista Premium roll. Shots are uncropped.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wow... gorgeous greys. Terrific first roll.

Wish me good luck with mine, Master Rolling Eyes


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Terrific ones. Reflections shots always caught me, dunno why.

Cheers, Marty.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Good luck, Orio, hope yours turn out great!

The above were taken with my Ricohflex Dia L. The ground by the swamp
was covered with dry leaves, but had the same mud as in the pics, almost
went up to my knees in one spot! Laughing

Here's the dev:

Prewash: woops, forgot. Embarassed
Bath A: 4 mins
Bath B: 4 mins
Stop: <1 min
Fixer: 6 mins

I was watching for the dye to appear in the baths, stop, but appeared
in the fixer. Turned it a nice purple, 500ml of fixer gone bye-bye. Rolling Eyes
The borders on the negs were a nice light grey, tho.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
marty wrote:
Terrific ones. Reflections shots always caught me, dunno why.

Cheers, Marty.


Thanks, Marty! I took some in color with my Koni Rapid Omega 100,
will have them and a roll I took last Satuday with the Yashica A, dev'd
tomorrow.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
I do not think you are meant to pre-soak film when using two-bath developers.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Seele, that may be, but I didn't encounter untoward results when I
prewashed the TMAX:



This is filling the tank with 20C temp water, agitating for one minute,
decant, repeat, then start dev. It removed the dye from the TMAX.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Katastrofo wrote:

This is filling the tank with 20C temp water, agitating for one minute,
decant, repeat, then start dev. It removed the dye from the TMAX.


Bill, what dye?
I didn't know that B&W films had dyes.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio wrote:
Katastrofo wrote:

This is filling the tank with 20C temp water, agitating for one minute,
decant, repeat, then start dev. It removed the dye from the TMAX.


Bill, what dye?
I didn't know that B&W films had dyes.


At the beginning, sensitive materials were only sensitive to blue, various dyes were incorporated into the emulsion to make it sensive to more colours, therefore, apart from the real blue-sensitive materials, all black-and-white materials contain dyes.

Dyes are also applied to the support side of the film for absorbing light passing through the whole thickness of the film, so that it would reduce the light bouncing back through the support and expose the emulsion a second time through irradiation, but it is normally known as "anti-halation dye".


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Orio, I guess I made a nomenclature error. Whatever that is in the
masking layer, antihalaltion layer, with TMAX it was blue, with Acros it
is purple, TriX and Arista Premium it is lavender/purple:



The Arista Premium that was done professionally has a very faint blue/purple color to the borders, nothing like what is pictured above.

Seele beat me to it, thanks Seele! Smile


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The Acros and Dia really make sense of the swamp, these are the best ones yet you've done.

I bet the purple fixer would still be good


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The residual purple colour seen on the negatives is actually the colour put into the cellulose acetate film base, some films use tinted support as a mean to reduce halation and irradiation.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Very good, this film gives incredibly detailed images, and you made good use of it. I think i prefer the 1st , both are equally superb. The range of greys is fantastic by the way.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Jussi, Seele, and Hexi, thanks for your comments. I'm happy with these,
hope the TMAX roll comes out with some good one.

@Seele, do you have a recommended formula for a fixer? I've been
looking at some formulae and seem to have half the chemicals it would
take to make it, already.


PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bill,

It was a little more than twenty years ago that my local photographic dealer had a barrel of "hypo" (sodium thiosulphate) sold by weight for pennies; certainly it was low-grade stuff with a fair bit of dirt in it, but as long as the solution was filtered it worked as well as anything. These days it is not really that inexpensive, so I gave up making my own fixer, besides the ammonium-based ones work much faster and not at all costly.

If you want to make home brew fixer, you can try this:

Ilford IF-2 film fixer

Sodium thiosulphate 400g
Potassium metabisulphite 25g
Water to 1 litre

A slight change of proportion makes...

Ilford IF-4 paper fixer

Sodium thiosulphate 200g
Potassium metabisulphite 25g
Water to 1 litre


PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Seele wrote:

It was a little more than twenty years ago that my local photographic dealer had a barrel of "hypo" (sodium thiosulphate) sold by weight for pennies; certainly it was low-grade stuff with a fair bit of dirt in it, but as long as the solution was filtered it worked as well as anything.

I recall every chemist's shop used to stock raw fixer and developer, sold by the pound. Sure, you could buy fancy packeted stuff, but for lads on pocket money it was a lot cheaper doing it the trad way.
I doubt if there's a single chemist left in the UK or Ireland who stocks raw chemicals (not just photographic) any more, such is the dumbing-down and nanny-state culture we now have.


PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Seele, thanks much for the fixer formulae!


PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Bill,

There are plenty more recipes in my notebooks... and out there too.

The fixer formulae I mentioned are as basic as they come: the metabisulphite gives acidity to kill development instantly so you can even forego the stop bath, but there again, by using stop bath it can keep the fixer potency better. Note that it is not a hardening fixer, so it can be washed out quicker afterwards.


PostPosted: Sat Nov 21, 2009 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Seele, thanks again, will check with Artcraft Chemicals to see if they have
these, pretty sure they do, and good to know it's a non-hardening fixer.
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