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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 215
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 Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 5:40 pm Post subject: A Few Upkeep Questions |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
1) What is a safe way of cleaning the outsides of lenses? (the body, not the optics)
2a) what causes focus rings to get stiff?
2b) does it make sense that a focus ring would be more stiff in one spot? or should stiffness be uniform?
3) is there any way (aside from disassembling the lens) to fix focus ring stiffness?
4) why do people store their lenses with the front element down?
Thanks!
_________________
Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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Attila
Joined: 24 Feb 2007
Posts: 57849
Location: Hungary
Expire: 2025-11-18
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| Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 6:34 pm Post subject: Re: A Few Upkeep Questions |
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Attila wrote:
| gearsNcogs wrote: |
1) What is a safe way of cleaning the outsides of lenses? (the body, not the optics)
2a) what causes focus rings to get stiff?
2b) does it make sense that a focus ring would be more stiff in one spot? or should stiffness be uniform?
3) is there any way (aside from disassembling the lens) to fix focus ring stiffness?
4) why do people store their lenses with the front element down?
Thanks! |
1) depend from lens tube material, alu is different than plastic.
Pure alcohol usually good for everything if dirt is not too strong.
2)I has several reason one of them no more grease or too old.
b) can happen with many lenses , for example it was dropped down
3) if reason just grease problem you can fix it.
4) focusing helicoid in this position bellow blades and on hot summer days can't go onto blades and make it them stuck. This position is takes less space on shelf than others.
This is not a good storage technic lens get less light than on side positions.
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Sony NEX-7 Carl Zeiss Planar 85mm f1.4, Minolta MD 35mm f1.8, Konica 135mm f2.5, Minolta MD 50mm f1.2, Minolta MD 250mm f5.6, Carl Zeiss Sonnar 180mm f2.8
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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 215
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| Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
Thanks for the help Attila! two of my lenses have pretty stiff focus rings, so i'll try giving them a little grease. This might be a silly question, but is there any particular way to do this?
_________________
Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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8310
Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 123
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| Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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8310 wrote:
3) Sometimes turning the focus ring for a while can make it go easier. "Sometimes" is stressed here, most of the stiff focus rings I came across could have been turned until the cows come home.
I have heard some people had success by warming up the lens a little (not too much, say, 50°C or something). I tried it once and it helped as long as the lens was still warm, but afterwards it was as stiff as ever.
It might be worth a try, but in my experience there is not much hope in bypassing relubrication.
Last edited by 8310 on Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:14 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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8310
Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 123
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| Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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8310 wrote:
| gearsNcogs wrote: |
| Thanks for the help Attila! two of my lenses have pretty stiff focus rings, so i'll try giving them a little grease. This might be a silly question, but is there any particular way to do this? |
Well, disassembling, removing the old grease from the helicoid, putting the new stuff on and reassembling.
I would not recommend trying to "inject" grease into the lens somehow without disassembling it, if that was your idea. It is going to end up everywhere except the place it is supposed to (worst case: on lens elements and the diaphragm). Besides, usually the stiff old grease would still be there, so you would only make things worse. |
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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 215
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| Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
| 8310 wrote: |
3) Sometimes turning the focus ring for a while can make it go easier. "Sometimes" is stressed here, most of the stiff focus rings I came across could have been turned until the cows come home.
I have heard people having success by warming up the lens a little (not too much, say, 50°C or something). I tried it once and it helped as long as the lens was still warm, but afterwards it was as stiff as ever.
It might be worth a try, but in my experience there is not much hope in bypassing relubrication. |
that's an interesting idea, i never would have thought of that. thanks for your help
_________________
Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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gearsNcogs
Joined: 20 Oct 2010
Posts: 215
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| Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2010 8:11 pm Post subject: |
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gearsNcogs wrote:
| 8310 wrote: |
| gearsNcogs wrote: |
| Thanks for the help Attila! two of my lenses have pretty stiff focus rings, so i'll try giving them a little grease. This might be a silly question, but is there any particular way to do this? |
Well, disassembling, removing the old grease from the helicoid, putting the new stuff on and reassembling.
I would not recommend trying to "inject" grease into the lens somehow without disassembling it, if that was your idea. It is going to end up everywhere except the place it is supposed to (worst case: on lens elements and the diaphragm). Besides, usually the stiff old grease would still be there, so you would only make things worse. |
oh, ok. well, its a good thing i haven't tried it yet! thanks for the info, i misunderstood what Attila was saying. Maybe one day i'll get them serviced, but for now a stiff focus ring isn't the end of the world.
_________________
Stills: SLR: Asahi Pentax Spotmatic SP, DSLR: Canon EOS Rebel XTi, Canon EOS 7D
Cine: 16mm: Krasnogorsk-3 (M42 mount) 8mm: Revere Model 88 Super 8: Bell and Howell 1235 XL Filmosonic
MF Lenses: M42: Meteor 5-1 KMZ 17-69mm 1:1,9 (Cine Only), Asahi Super Takumar 50mm 1:1.4, Focal MC 28mm 1:2.8, Tele-Lentar 135mm 1:2.8, Helios-44 KMZ 58mm 1:2, Helios-44-2 KMZ 58mm 1:2 M39: Industar-26M 50mm 1:2.8 F: Nikon Nikkor 50mm 1:1.8 EF: Lensbaby Composer f2 w/Double Glass Optic, Rokinon 35mm 1:1.4 AS UMC, Rokinon 85mm T1.5 AS IF UMC
AF Lenses: EF-S: Canon EF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 II, EF: Tamron AF 70-300mm 1:4-5.6 TELE-MACRO (1:2), Canon EF 50mm 1:1.8 II
Fixed-Focus Lenses: D: Elitar 6.5mm 1:1.9, Wollensak-Revere 13mm 1:2.5 Velostigmat |
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pat donnelly
Joined: 19 Jan 2010
Posts: 666
Location: Brisbane, Australia
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| Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 10:42 am Post subject: Ultrasonics! |
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pat donnelly wrote:
42KHz 50w
Has anyone used these devices for cleansing lenses? Theoretically a $40 unit can contain individual elements and shake off all but grease?
Practically though, what are the pitfalls? Please respond, based upon experience?
_________________
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EP-1, E-410, E-300, D100, D1,
C-Mt: 25mm 1.9, 75mm 1.4, 75mm 1.3, 75mm 1.9, Ultra wides, one inch sensor, 20+ c-mount zooms
OM 350mm f2.8, Nikkor 180 f2.8, Exa 180 f2.8,
Tamrons: 90mm f2.5, 500mm f8 x3, 135 f2.5, 200 f3.5, 24mm 2.5, 28mm 2.5 x8,
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Big Dawg
Joined: 28 Jan 2009
Posts: 2530
Location: Thach Alabama
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| Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 2:46 pm Post subject: |
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Big Dawg wrote:
Store lens on their side!
+1 Attila.
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Big Dawg |
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estudleon
Joined: 15 May 2008
Posts: 3754
Location: Argentina
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| Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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estudleon wrote:
| Big Dawg wrote: |
Store lens on their side!
+1 Attila. |
Some fans lenses say that they must be in side down position, but alternating the four sides. I ask to me. How do the know the sides that were down and whcih is the next?
Crazy guys!!!
_________________
Konica 2,8/100
CZJ: 4/20, 2,4/35, 1,8/50 aus jena, 3,5/135MC, Pentacon 1,8/50
Pentax S-M-C-1,4/50
Helios 44-3
Mamiya 2,8/135
Misc. : jupiter 9
Stuff used:
A) SRL
Alpa 10 D - kern macro Switar 1,9/50 -black, Kilffit apochromat 2/100.
Asahi pentax spotmatic super takumar 1,4/50
Contaflex super B tessar 2,8/50 Pro-tessar 115
Leica R3 electronic summicron 2/50 elmarit 2,8/35
Konica Autoreflex 3 (2 black and chrome one), TC, T4. 2,8/24, 3,5/28 not MC and MC, 1,8/40, 1,4/50, 1,7/50 MC and not MC, 1,8/85, 3,2/135, 3,5/135, 4/200
Minolta XG9 2,8/35, 2/45, 3,5/135
Nikkormat FTn 1,4/50, 2,8/135
Fujica ST 801, 605, 705n. 3,5/19, 1,4/50, 1,8/55, 4/85, 3,5/135.
Praktica MTL 5 and a lot of M42 lenses.
Voigtlander. Bessamatic m, bessamatix de luxe, bessamatic cs, ultramatic and ultramatic cs.
Skoparex 3,5/35, skopagon 2/40, skopar 2,8/50, skopar X 2,8/50, super lanthar (out of catalogue) 2,8/50, dinarex 3,4/90, dinarex 4,8/100, super dinarex 4/135, super dinarex 4/200, zoomar 2,8/36-83, portrait lens 0, 1 and 2. Curtagon 4/28 and 2,8/35
Canon AV1, 1,8/50
Rolleiflex SL35 and SL35 E. 2,8/35 angulon, 2,8/35 distagon, 1,4/55 rolleinar, 1,8/50 planar, 4/135 tessar, 2,8/135 rolleinar, x2 rollei, M42 to rollei adap.
Etc.
RF
Yashica Minister III
Voightlander Vito, vitomatic I, Vito C, etc.
Leica M. M2, M3 (d.s.) and M4. Schenider 3,4/21, 2/35 summaron 2,8/35 (with eyes). Summicron 2/35 (8 elements with eyes), 2/35 chrome, 2/35 black, 1,4/35 pre asph and aspheric - old -, 2/40 summicron, 2,8/50 elmar, 2/50 7 elements, 2/50 DR, 2/50 - minolta version, 1,4/50 summilux 1966 version, 1,4/75 summilux, 2/90 large version, 2/90 reduced version of 1987, 2,8/90 elmarit large version, 4/135 elmar. |
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martinsmith99
Joined: 31 Aug 2008
Posts: 6943
Location: S Glos, UK
Expire: 2013-11-18
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| Posted: Fri Nov 26, 2010 7:13 am Post subject: |
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martinsmith99 wrote:
Why should they be stored on sides?
I store mine front element down due to lack of storage space. If there's a good reason I will have to rethink this.
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Casual attendance these days |
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