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Orio
Joined: 24 Feb 2007 Posts: 29908 Location: West Emilia
Expire: 2012-12-04
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 2:24 pm Post subject: |
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Orio wrote:
It's very difficult for me to guess because I don't own any of your lenses so I don't have any idea of how they would look.
Just based on the contrast I would attempt to say that the old rapid rectilinear (which obviously can not have any coating) should not be #2 whose contrast seems to suggest at least a coating of some kind. _________________ Orio, Administrator
T*
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visualopsins
 Joined: 05 Mar 2009 Posts: 9223 Location: California
Expire: 2021-06-22
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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visualopsins wrote:
I would agree with Orio except B is overexposed a bit; I think the TTH RR would glow a little more with overexposure. So, I'm guessing A is TTH RR, based on low contrast. I've no clue about B & C; I like C rendering best of all three. _________________ ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮ like attracts like! ☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮☮
http://tinyurl.com/bgaho3q
Cameras: Sony A7Rii, Spotmatics II, F, and ESII
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Lenses: Auto-Takumar 1:2.3 f=35, Super-TAKUMAR 1:2/35 (Fat), Super-TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50 (8-element), Auto-Takumars 1:2 f=55mm & 1:2.2 f=55mm (Sonnar), Takumars 1:1.8 f=58mm & 1:2.4 f=58mm, Takumar 1:2.8 f=105mm (Model I), Takumar 1:2.8/105 (Model II) Tele-Takumar 1:5.6/200, Tele-Takumar 1:6.3/300
M42 Asahi Optical Co., Lenses: Super-Multi-Coated Fisheye-TAKUMAR 1:4/17, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMARs 1:4.5/20 & 1:3.5/24 & 1:2/35, SMC TAKUMAR 1:1.4/50, Super-Multi-Coated TAKUMARs 1:1.8/85, 1:2.8/105, 1:3.5/135, 1:2.5/135 (II), 1:4/150, 1:4/200, & 1:4.5/500, Super-Multi-Coated Macro-TAKUMARs 1:4/50 & 1:4/100, Super-Multi-Coated Bellows-TAKUMAR 1:4/100
Pentax K-Mount: SMC PENTAX ZOOM 1:3.5 35~105mm
Nikon: Nikon Micro-NIKKOR-P-C Auto 1:3.5 f=55mm, Nikon NIKKOR-P Auto 105mm f/2.5 Pre-AI (Sonnar), Nikon Micro-NIKKOR 105mm 1:4 AI, Nikon NIKKOR AI-S 35-135mm f/3,5-4,5
Tamron: Tamron SP 51B 17mm f/3.5, Tamron SP 500mm f/8 (52BB), Tamron SP 70-210mm f/3.5 (19AH)
Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 2.8/35 |
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cooltouch
 Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9010 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
I think it's C, only because C's image seems to be a little more soft on the edges than the other two (although A is close to C in this regard), and I suspect that a lens such as the subject one was probably not great in corner to corner sharpness.
Still, I also find C to be the most dramatic of the three, so if this is the one, then I'd say you've got a real winner. Although it appears that all three lenses did a good job. _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
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My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
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Scheimpflug
 Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1895 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 1:22 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
I probably should have adjusted the settings to balance the perceived exposures... keeping the exposure settings the same makes it easier to see how the lenses differ, but I suppose it doesn't necessarily show them at equivalent "image reproductions".
Nobody has any guesses for the competition?
Here are the histograms for the three samples:
Sample A:
Sample B:
Sample C:
 _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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cooltouch
 Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9010 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 4:41 am Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Scheimpflug wrote: |
Nobody has any guesses for the competition?
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Sorry. Hard to say. I'm figuring you probably used the 500mm f/6.3 preset tele for one of them, but it would be hard to say which one. Maybe A. I still think C is the TTH RR _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Scheimpflug
 Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1895 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 7:20 am Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
You guys are good!
Both A and C are the TTH RR. Sample B comes from my Aetna Rokunar 300/5.6, a lens which really surprised me with its performance. The Aetna is sharper at 100%, although part of it could have been my focusing. CA is very similar- I can see just the tiniest touch on the Aetna, and none on the TTH RR. Bokeh appears to be slightly smoother on the Aetna, although I will need to try some night shots with bright point light sources to confirm.
So why two shots with the TTH RR? Since this is a large format lens, I knew that the tiny lens hood would not be adequate. Therefore, Sample A is with the factory brass lens hood, and Sample C is with an improvised hood of my own design. cooltouch picked up on C having softer edges (something I can't see myself ), which probably indicates that my hood was a bit too aggressive.
Either way, this quote sums it up:
cooltouch wrote: |
Still, I also find C to be the most dramatic of the three, so if this is the one, then I'd say you've got a real winner. |
Pretty impressive performance, I would say, especially given that its competition is larger, heavier, and at least 80 years newer.
Oh, and also, I still need to clean the rear element. Since it is so far down in the tube, it probably hasn't been cleaned in decades.
Anyone have any ideas how to do this?  _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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cooltouch
 Joined: 15 Jan 2009 Posts: 9010 Location: Houston, Texas
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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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cooltouch wrote:
Scheimpflug wrote: |
cooltouch picked up on C having softer edges (something I can't see myself ), which probably indicates that my hood was a bit too aggressive. |
Well, it wasn't easy to see, especially at the picture size posted, but careful examination of details at the edges compared to details closer toward the center suggested a slight softening. No more than a hint, really, but it's all I had to go on, so I gave it a shot. Glad to find out I was right, and it also explains why I saw similar softening with A.
If that rear element has a slotted retainer ring, you can probably remove it with a lens spanner. Is it deeply recessed? _________________ Michael
My Gear List: http://michaelmcbroom.com/photo/gear.html
My Gallery: http://michaelmcbroom.com/gallery3/index.php/
My Flickr Page: https://www.flickr.com/photos/11308754@N08/albums
My Music: https://soundcloud.com/michaelmcbroom/albums
My Blog: http://michaelmcbroom.com/blogistan/ |
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Scheimpflug
 Joined: 06 Feb 2010 Posts: 1895 Location: New Zealand / USA
Expire: 2011-11-18
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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:33 pm Post subject: |
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Scheimpflug wrote:
cooltouch wrote: |
If that rear element has a slotted retainer ring, you can probably remove it with a lens spanner. Is it deeply recessed? |
Yep, very deeply recessed. The carrier for the rear elements is the part which is soldered to the tube, so while I can clean one side, the other is all the way at the end of this black tube:
No threaded retainer rings here... appears to be hammered over brass that retains the lens elements.  _________________ Sigma DP1, Nikon D40 (hers ), Polaroid x530, Pentax P30t, Pentax P50, (P30t/P50 K-A to Nikon F body mount conversion)
Nikon: 18-55/3.5-5.6 "G ED II DX" (F) Soligor: 28/2.8 (FL->F converted), 135/3.5 (F), 3x TC (F, modified) Kalimar: 28-85/3.5 (F)
Vivitar: 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3 (F), Tele 500/6.3 Preset (F), 19/3.8 (F) Minolta: 300/5.6 (SR/MC/MD pending F conversion)
Tamron: 28/2.8 (Adaptall) Panagor: 28/2.5 (FD) Aetna: 300/5.6 (F) Osawa: MC 28/2.8 (F)
Vintage Lenses: Dallmeyer: 1940s A.M. 14in 356mm f4 (ULF->M42) 1930s Adon Telephoto Taylor, Taylor & Hobson: 1880s Rapid Rectilinear 8 1/2 x 6 1/2 11.31in f/8 (LF->?)
Parts Lenses: Nikon 35-135/3.5-4.5 (F), Sigma 70-210/4.5 (F), Nikon 50/1.8 Series E (F) |
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luisalegria
 Joined: 07 Mar 2008 Posts: 6627 Location: San Francisco, USA
Expire: 2018-01-18
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Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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luisalegria wrote:
1. Blow out all you can with compressed air.
2. Use an artists brush to loosen some more dirt, blow againg.
3. Tape q-tips to a barbeque stick/chopstick, dampen with alcohol, wipe glass.
4. Wipe some more with dry q-tips _________________ I like Pentax DSLR's, Exaktas, M42 bodies of all kinds, strange and cheap Japanese lenses, and am dabbling in medium format/Speed Graphic work. |
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